A very large art exhibition drawing on the resources of the heavyweight institution known as “Hacienda” – the Mexican equivalent of Revenue Canada or the IRS in the United States – has just opened at Guadalajara’s premier museum space, the Instituto Cultural Cabañas.
With the imposing name “Acervos Artísticos de la Nación en Custodia de la SHCP” (Artistic Heritage of the Nation in Custody of the Secretary of Hacienda and Public Credit), the show includes eight ample salons filled with 175 pieces by roughly the same number of artists, notably well known Mexican painters and sculptors of the 20th century, such as Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Raúl Anguiano and Leonora Carrington, as well as some foreign artists who spent time in Mexico and even, rather mysteriously, a few anonymous ones.
I was impressed by the exhibition, especially the first large salons where the artists’ names were familiar, the quality high, and where comical motion sensors that sounded like the chirping of brawny birds surprised anyone who dared get close enough to the descriptive placards to read them.
It wasn’t until I got to the next-to-last “nucleus,” with its small collection of Russian icons from the 17th and 18th centuries, that my curiosity was piqued. What was a group of antique, precious-metal-encrusted, depictions of religious figures doing in this show? How and why was the exhibition assembled and what is Hacienda – the tax collector – doing with a valuable art collection anyway?
The fact is there is no theme to this collection of art except for the fact that Hacienda owns all of it – and that is not an artistic theme. And the way most of the works were acquired was through program called “Pago en Especie” [Payment in Kind], which, as exhibition materials explain, is a “kind-hearted scheme” that began in 1957, allowing artists to “pay their fiscal obligations” using their valuable artwork.
It takes an enlightened citizen to recognize their own self interest in paying taxes and perhaps Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Raúl Anguiano, Leonora Carrington and all the rest were such citizens. Still, even though the program was probably kind-hearted in intent, it is hard to imagine artists jumping for joy at having to hand over a valuable painting or sculpture to Hacienda. (Carrington, who died in 2011, for example, is represented in the show by one particularly fine, towering bronze sculpture, as well as other work.) And if the artists or their executors were wise, they probably realized they had been spared the far worse pain of handing over cash.
A Diego Rivera oil painting shows the famous artist’s studio.
However, at least a few of the other art “donors” must have been quite sad indeed. These were the travelers detained by Customs because they could not prove their artwork (the Russian icons) had been lawfully acquired. The seized art was never claimed and its provenance never established, so it simply became part of Hacienda’s artistic offering to the nation, part of a large art collection that is shown inside and outside Mexico more than 20 times every year.
There are always several art exhibitions at the Cabañas of varying stature. Now, in addition to the headliner, “Acervos Artisticos,” another worthwhile and very large show is “Pierre Verger – Mexico,” a nice collection of large and extra-large format, black-and-white photographs taken in the 1930s and 50s by this French artist and self-taught ethnographer, who died in 1996 in Brazil. The show records Verger’s travels to out-of-the-way locales in the heart of Mexico, where he captured fascinating portraits, landscapes, village scenes, workshops and markets, with a special emphasis on traditional dances performed by the isolated indigenous inhabitants.
Instituto Cultural Cabañas has undergone improvements in recent months, making some people’s favorite art venue a more attractive and serene place. One is the extension of its hours, now 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily except Monday, when it is closed.
Another is mundane but noteworthy – the addition of a Black Coffee cafe just to the right of the principal entrance. Comfortable seating, a wifi network and accommodating baristas make it a spot that even attracts regulars, especially on Tuesdays, when entrance to the Cabañas is free. In addition, new permanent sculptures by Mexican artists have been added to some of the small patios.
On the day I was there, some 40 young singers from the youth choir of the Cathedral were stationed along some passageways and patios while their director led them through a rendition of a Gregorian-like chant that resonated beautifully through the northern part of the institution. They were only practicing but it was magical enough to draw my attention and to wish they were there every day.
“Acervos Artísticos de la Nación en Custodia de la SHCP” shows until June 25 at Instituto Cultural Cabañas, Plaza Tapatia (Cabañas 8) about five blocks behind (east of) Teatro Degollado. (33) 3818-2800, 3668-1800, ext. 31051, 31065, 31642. Cost: 70 pesos for adult foreigners. Officials say showing a “residente” card gets foreigners in for the normal price of 45 pesos. Only 20 pesos for seniors and children 6 to 12 years old. Closed Mondays; open Tuesday to Sunday, 10–6; Tuesdays free for all. See www.hospicioCabañas.com.