This marvelous ecotourism center and camping area is beautiful, safe and, believe it or not, located only 40 minutes from Guadalajara.
I first came upon the place while trekking through the Primavera Forest. Having hiked three kilometers from the pueblito of Emiliano Zapata, Rancho Ecoturistico Agua Dulce was the first rest stop for our group and it was there I met Tonatiuh Galán (Tonatiuh was the Aztec sun god), who quickly convinced me that Agua Dulce is an ideal recreational site for people who love nature but not the noise that often comes with Mexican balnearios (water parks). “Here at Agua Dulce we prefer the songs of birds instead of radios,” said Tonatiuh with a wide smile.
Agua Dulce means Sweet Water and it’s aptly named because a powerful spring of cool water, safe and delicious to drink, wells up out of the ground here to create a sparkling stream deep enough for you to swim in. Since many nearby rivers are boiling hot and as salty as sea water, this fresh-water spring has always been considered special to local people and it’s great to see they are willing to share it with others.
We planned our campout for May 25, figuring it would be one of the hottest and driest days of the entire year, perfect for swimming in fresh, cool water. We couldn’t have been more mistaken!
Tonatiuh, you see, is not the only ancient god up there in the heavens. Another one named Tlaloc decided to conjure up Hurricane Bud over Puerto Vallarta, resulting in a dark and threatening sky as we arrived at Agua Dulce. Then, with perfect timing, just as I was attempting to put up our tent, the rain came pouring down and, of course, the moment I finished, the rain ended: Murphy’s Law at its best! After that, however, things got better and better.
That night the clouds vanished, the owls hooted and the next day Tonatiuh along with Daniela Gamero, a geographer, led us along an interpretative hiking-biking trail among huge, bizarrely shaped rocks composed of Tala Tuff.
The small kids then had a grand old time riding the ranch’s four ponies while almost everyone else was whizzing through the air on two long zip lines which cross the river twice. When we finally announced to our friends that we were heading for home, four-year-old Rosana Boudey of Zapopan, replied, “Not me. I’m staying right here.” A better recommendation would be hard to come by.
Agua Dulce has a big hill with a tall watch tower on top, offering a magnificent 360-degree view of the Primavera Forest with the Tequila Volcano looming on the horizon. Camping here costs 150 pesos per person and the road is friendly to any sort of vehicle you might be driving (or pedaling). You can contact Tonatiuh Galán at cell phone 331-341-5347, email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
How to get there
If you are in Guadalajara, drive west on Avenida Vallarta until you cross the Periférico (Ring Road). Continue 25 kilometers west, following the signs to Ameca and turn off the old Nogales highway onto highway 70. Don’t get on the toll road by mistake! After a mere 4.3 kilometers on highway 70 you will pass over a bridge. Just one kilometer past this bridge, make a left turn into the little town of Emiliano Zapata (N20 43.210 W103 37.641). You’ll see a store on your left and a fork in the road straight ahead of you. Keep right and you’ll be on a winding cobblestone road that will take you past the town plaza. Now the road becomes dirt (good quality) and 300 meters past the plaza, you come to a T where, again, you go right. Continuing southeast for 1.3 kilometers you come to another crossroad where, again, you bear right. From here go south 890 meters to the well-marked entrance to Rancho Agua Dulce (N20 41.976 W103 37.137). It’s a short stretch of three kilometers from Emiliano Zapata to Agua Dulce, and it only takes about 16 minutes to get there. By the way, when you are heading back towards Emilano Zapata, ignore a “to Guadalajara” sign pointing to an inferior dirt road. Driving time from the western edge of Guadalajara to Agua Dulce Ranch is only 40 minutes.