In 2011 I described the Seven Falls of Tonala as “one of greater Guadalajara’s best – but least known – natural beauty spots.”
So I was quite surprised while recently surfing the net, to discover a snazzy web page proclaiming the innumerable attractions of “Parque Ecoturistico Las 7 Cascadas.” There were flashy pictures of smiling kids zooming down ziplines, scrambling across hanging bridges and rappelling into enticing natural swimming pools – along with mention of a heavy entrance fee to what looked like Jalisco’s answer to Disneyland.
“I guess it’s time for me to revisit 7 Falls,” I told myself.
Recalling that the major problem associated with this particular place had always been the bad road leading to it, I scrutinized this web page for precise directions but found none. I turned to Google Maps which immediately recognized the site and gave me a route – a curious route indeed – to get there.
A few days later, Josh Wolf – together with his entire family – and I followed that Google route, which sent us along Calzada Lázaro Cardenas to the newly constructed Periférico Oriente (Eastern Ring Road). These are two major highways and you’d imagine they would be connected, right?
Wrong, as far as I can see, but why, I can’t guess. No problem, however, because Google Maps managed to find a way for us to get on to the Periférico Oriente via a small, obscure tunnel under Lázaro Cárdenas. Just before the tunnel, however, we were greeted by a huge sign informing us that the federal government imposes big fines on people who try to avoid paying tolls on federal highways.
We sat in the car for a while debating what might happen to us if we went through the tunnel. We had seen no toll booths anywhere in the vicinity and – seeing no cops around to whom we could make inquiries – we took the plunge, passed through the tunnel. In less than a minute we found ourselves heading north on the new Eastern Periférico.
All of this proved merely the beginning of our saga. Google Maps next told us to exit the Eastern Periférico onto what can only be described as the Camino from Hell. It would be fun to do in a Jeep, but how Josh’s car ever survived it, I don’t know. Unless you have 4WD, don’t follow this ill-starred route. Use the easy route mentioned below.
Inching our way up the bad road, we eventually came to a ramshackle building (with no sign) from which emerged a wiry fellow with a genuine ranchero suntan.
“We’re looking for Las 7 Cascadas,” said Josh.
“You’ve found them!” replied the man. “Twenty pesos per person, please, and the kids are free!”
“This is the Parque de Deportes Extremos (extreme sports)?” I asked.
“Oh no, we don’t have those activities anymore. There’s just the walking trail from one fall to the next.”
While we visited the first fall, which is 50 meters high, the caretaker told us that at least two people had been killed here doing extreme sports such as rappelling and ziplining, causing the place to be shut down. A glance at the shoddy remains of a hanging bridge gave us an idea of what sort of safety standards must have prevailed during the Adventure Park’s brief existence.
Next we took a look at a shaded picnic platform with a magnificent view of the canyon below us. “We allow camping too,” said the ticket collector, “and if you stay overnight here, you just might spot El Jinete Sin Cabeza (The Headless Horseman). I’ve seen him often.”
In my book “Outdoors in Western Mexico” I mention that the steep path to falls 2 to 7 “is not exactly the kind you would find in Central Park, and some grunting and groaning may be needed to help you up or down the trickier spots.”
Well, now, at age 75, I would give this trail a much higher grunt-and-groan rate, so, even though the distance from the entrance to Fall Number Two is only 534 meters, think of this as an obstacle course designed to test your mettle. Just take your time and move along slowly, bearing in mind that it’s much easier coming back up.
At last we reached Fall Two, disappointed to find that the “river” is now just a trickle. This has allowed the pool at the foot of the fall to fill with leaves and other debris, discouraging swimming, even though the water comes from a spring and is not polluted.
Back up at the top, I asked the caretaker if there was any alternative to the Camino from Hell for getting back to the Periférico. To our relief, he told us about an easy route, suitable for any sort of vehicle. Since the Periférico Oriente starts from the Chapala highway (just north of the airport), it means that lakeside dwellers can get to the 7 Falls far more easily than those in Guadalajara.
How to get there
From Chapala: About 300 meters north of the airport exit, turn right onto the Nuevo Periférico Oriente and follow it 18.7 kilometers to an unmarked exit at N20 38.084 W103 12.587, just after an overhead pedestrian bridge. From here it is only a two-kilometer drive – on a decent road – to 7 Falls Entrance (N20 38.561 W103 11.837) and you can see the route on Wikiloc.com under “Seven Falls Driving Route.”
From Guadalajara: Take Lázaro Cárdenas east to a point (N20 37.166 W103 12.562), 500 meters after you pass over the Nuevo Periférico Oriente. Creep along slowly here. You will see an exit reading “Desarrollo Habitacional/Centro de Distribución.” Don’t take this, but continue on the main road a few more meters. Now you will see a narrow lane on your right. Ease off the highway and – at your own risk – take this lane down to a tunnel under the highway. Turn left to go through the tunnel and left again to get to the Periferico heading north. Go north 1.7 kilometers, pass under the overhead pedestrian bridge and immediately take the unmarked exit mentioned above in the directions from Chapala. Again, you will find the route on Wikiloc.com under “Seven Falls Driving Route.”