A few weeks ago I wrote about Parque Ecológico Los Hervores, a delightful recreational area created by Don Roberto Castro on the shores of the Patitos (Little Ducks) River, located 42 kilometers north of Guadalajara, near San Cristóbal de la Barranca. The big attraction on this bend of the river are 14 hissing, bubbling and even banging geysers, making this the only geyser park I know of in the state of Jalisco.
After visiting the area, my friends and I jumped into one of three hot pools on the premises. The temperature of the one we chose was just perfect for long-term soaking and so relaxing that we just wanted to stay there forever. When we finally did get out – reluctantly, I might add – we all agreed that we simply had to experience this pool under a star-filled sky.
Now I am back at Don Roberto’s Parque again and have fulfilled my dream of star-gazing from that delightful pool and then jumping straight into my tent. Ah, you simply have to try it!
The advantages of camping here are many: it’s perfectly safe; the grounds are flat and well-shaded by leafy guamuchil trees; there are toilets; pets and campfires are allowed; there is plenty of water, both hot and cold, and – most amazing of all – there are no mosquitoes, gnats, flies or other pesky bugs to be seen, perhaps thanks to sulfur added to the river water by the geysers.
All of these points make a good argument for pitching your tent at Los Patitos. My one caveat is the same that applies to all campgrounds in Mexico: watch out for noisy people with noisy radios.
It was Saturday evening and for a while it looked like my friends and I would be the only campers, but, alas, at dusk a car appeared and less than five seconds after it arrived, the doors were flung open wide and throbbing banda music was echoing off the canyon walls above us. On this occasion, we were lucky. The new arrivals were relatives of Don Roberto, the owner and he simply asked them to turn off the music, which they did. Nevertheless, as darkness fell, we could hear all kinds of melodies wafting our way on the breeze from various camping spots far upstream. As I discovered years ago: “If it’s Saturday night in Mexico, there’s no escape from the music.”
Well, I came prepared for this situation. I had my ClearArmor Safety Earmuffs (developed for shooting ranges) to wear while reading my book and when it was time to sleep, I inserted my Howard Leight Max earplugs and slipped on a black mask to shut out the glaring lights illuminating the campground.
Of course, if it is possible for you to go camping on a week night, you could have a far better experience and might actually be able to enjoy the sounds of nature from within your tent: the whisper of the breeze, the hooting of owls, the burbling of the river and, who knows, at Los Patitos you may even hear the sputtering of the geysers in the distance.
By the way, on this visit I discovered something interesting about Don Roberto’s pools. I had assumed that water from the hottest pool subsequently flowed into the other two, allowing guests to choose the temperature they prefer. In reality, I learned, each pool was built around a separate hot spring, each with its own characteristics. As a result, every pool is as clean as can be, despite the green algae, which might put some people off ... up until they actually get into the water and discover how delightful it is.
Don’t forget, just about any kind of car can easily reach the place. From Monday to Friday the cost is 50 pesos per vehicle. Don Roberto sells cold beer and refrescos, but not food except for an occasional paleta (ice-cream bar). Don Roberto’s cell phone number is 333-451-0423 and he speaks a little English.
How to get there
Take the western Periférico north to the Tesistán road. Exit the Periférico and drive northwest eight kilometers to Highway 23 heading for Colotlán. Drive 40 kilometers north, skirting the town of San Cristóbal. At N21.07634 W103.42088 you will see a sign saying Ixcamilpa. Turn left and follow the paved road nine kilometers to the geyser park (N21.11326 W103.44525). Google Maps will get you there from anywhere if you aim at “Campamento Huixtlán,” even though this is a totally wrong name for the Parque Ecológico … but that’s Mexico! Driving time from the Periférico: about one hour and 15 minutes.