Lake Chapala area residents will note not a pause, but rather an intense burst of activity as Mexico’s idiosyncratic commemorations of All Saints and All Souls build steam this weekend, continuing through Monday, November 2, Dia de los Fieles Difuntos (Day of the Faithful Dead).
Visiting sacred grounds
Local cemeteries have already come to life as families appear to spruce up burial plots and prepare for gatherings held in memory of lost loved ones. With maintenance finished, they will decorate tombs with plants and floral arrangements, coronas (memorial wreaths) and cruces (crosses) embellished with religious images and artificial flowers, and veladoras (candles).
Throngs of visitors will turn up on November 1 to remember angelitos – the “little angels” who died in infancy and again on November 2, the date dedicated to all those who died at a riper age. Folks hang out around the gravesites for some heartfelt festivity in honor of the cherished muertitos who rest six feet under, bringing plenty of food, drink and music to fuel the annual tribute to cherished relatives and friends who have passed on. The eventual arrival of the local parish and his entourage lends the opportunity for appropriate spiritual reflection.
As graveyards turn into focal points of activity, vendors set up for business just outside the gates to hawk snacks and drinks, fresh flowers and other essential accoutrements for the occasion.
Reviving ancient traditions
This year Lakeside communities will also mark the Days of the Dead with a huge array of seasonal festivals and special events rooted in customs that have emerged and evolved from ancient times, offering foreign residents and visitors a unique opportunity to immerse themselves in Mexican culture and colorful traditions. Seasoned expats might consider venturing out to less familiar destinations for fresh experiences.
The activities listed below according to location are open to the public free of charge unless otherwise noted. Keep in mind that the given starting times tend to be flexible.
Day of the Dead activities at lakeside
AJIJIC
Sunday, November 1
Altar de Muertos exhibit opening, 6 p.m., Centro Cultural (CCA). “Quema del Dolor” (burning of pain) performance art, 7:45 p.m., starts at the San Andrés church ending at CCA entrance, followed by program of sacred music, poetry and dance, 8:30 p.m., CCA auditorium.
Monday, November 2
Graveyard tours with bilingual guide Viviane Michel, 3:45 and 5:45 p.m., starting from Panteón entrance on the highway at the west end of town; 100-peso donation for community improvement projects.
Festival de Muertos parade, 7:30 p.m., starts at the south entrance of the cemetery, heading east on Ocampo to Seis Esquinas and via Hidalgo to the plaza. Face painting makeup artists available at Manix Restaurant from 4 p.m., and Ocampo entrance to cemetery from 6 p.m.
Festival activities, from 6 p.m. at the plaza include Altar exhibit, sawdust carpet display along Calle Parroquia; poetry readings, 8 p.m.; “Seasons of Life and Death” folkdance show, 8:30 p.m.; and live dancing to tropical sounds by Parritas Musical from 9:15 p.m.
CHAPALA
Friday, October 30
Unveiling of altar dedicated to recently deceased sculptor Miguel Miramontes Carmona, 5 p.m., Centro Cultural Antigua Presidencia (CCAP), Avenida Madero at Hidalgo.
Stories, legends and musical ensemble, presented by Preparatoria Chapala students, 6 p.m., Fuente de Pescadores, Avenida Madero at Ramón Corona.
“Seasons of Life and Death,” ballet folkclórico spectacle featuring three local dance troupes, 8 p.m., San Francisco Church atrium; followed by more live music at Fuente de Pescadores.
Saturday, October 31
Día de Muertos theme painting contest, 20 artists creating canvases on site, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., CCAP. Competition continues all day Sunday, Monday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Awards ceremony for winners, Monday, 6 p.m.
Inauguration Catrina figures exhibit, 6 p.m., Fuente de Pescadores; followed by traditional Calavera poetry readings, live entertainment by Mariachi Son del Cuamil, Alaka’i kela Polynesian dance group and Ensamble Latino.
Sunday, November 1
Ballet Folcórico Universidad de Guadalajara , 7 p.m., Fuente de Pescadores.
Monday, November 2
Altar de Muertos exhibit by Preparatoria students, in process from 8 a.m., Avenida Madero between Hidalgo and Ramón Corona; street closed to vehicular traffic. Tasting of typical Mexican dishes, 5 p.m.
20th annual Altar de Muertos exhibition on Calle 5 de Mayo. Watch neighbors and friends mount displays from noon; cultural program of poetry readings and live music, 4:30 to 10 p.m., as visitors stroll the street between Miguel Martinez and Degollado.
Orquesta Higinio Ruvalcaba concert in memory of Miguel Miramontes, 6 p.m., CCAP auditorium.
Preparatoria’s traditional candlelight Marcha Funebre (funereal march), starts 7:30 outside CCAP, running two blocks east on Morelos, north along Zaragoza to Raúl Navarro, looping back to south bound lane of Madero, to end at the Malecón for symbolic burial of racism and poverty.
SAN ANTONIO TLAYACAPAN
Friday, October 30
Annual Humanities Fair at Instituto Loyola, next door to Lakeside Little Theatre (LLT), from 6:30 p.m., cultural program and candle-lit model graveyard dedicated to deceased Nobel Peace Prize winners.
Monday, November 2
Mañanitas early morning mariachi serenade for the dead, 7-9 a.m., Panteón, Calle Allen W. Lloyd opposite entrance to LLT, with coffee and bread served to visitors.
Altar displays in progress, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., at the town plaza; followed by
Dia de Muertos theatrical performance, 8 p.m.
SAN JUAN COSALA
Saturday, October 31
Halloween/Day of the Dead dining at Restaurante Viva México, Porfirio Díaz 92, seatings noon to 7 p.m., four course pre-Hispanic menu, local charity event; repeated on Sunday. Reservations recommended, tel. (387) 761-1058, Cell 333-156-2245, email to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
Niños Calavera kids bike ride, 7 p.m., starting at the town plaza.
Dia de Muertos en México art show opening, cocktail reception with live music, 8 p.m., Café Bonjour Paris, Porfirio Díaz 53, opposite the plaza.
Sunday, November 1
Offerings to Michicihualli (lake goddess) parade, 7 p.m., from waterfront Malecón to the Panteón, followed by Calvera poetry readings in the graveyard.
Monday, November 2
Mounting of Altars from 3 p.m. at the plaza. After dark activities, from 7 p.m., include performance of Chantepec children’s folkdance troupe, pre-Hispanic ritual by Danza Azteca Coxala and live music by La Catrina Son Jarocho. Sales exhibit of locally produced crafts.
JOCOTEPEC
Friday, October 30
Calaveras y Catrinas costume parade, 5 p.m., starting from the Panteón to wind streets through the center of town, ending at the central plaza. Followed by unveiling of giant Altar de Muertos, 12 meters tall, 9 p.m., and folkdance performances.
“De la Vida y Otras Muertes por Amor” theater, music, literary and contemporary dance program, 11 p.m., on the cemetery grounds, three blocks west of the plaza, admission 60 pesos.
Saturday, October 31
“La Muerte También Baila” (Death also Dances) show featuring four guest ballet folklórico troupes and the OFRAC youth orchestra, from 8 p.m., at the plaza.
Sunday, November 1
“La Muerte También Baila” repeat performance, 8 p.m., with music by Mariachi Tradicional Los Choznos.