A reader asked me for a recommendation on swimming holes in Western Mexico. That set bells of nostalgia ringing in my head as I recalled the very first swimming hole I’d ever seen, in the bend of a creek near my Grandpa’s farm in Wisconsin. The water was muddy brown and cold, but for me it was a little piece of heaven.
Below you will find a few such heavenly holes not far from Guadalajara, which, for the moment, have not been “improved” by the addition of concrete and plastic. Visit any of them on a weekday, and you’re almost certain to have that heavenly hole all to yourself.
The Little Jungle
This is about as perfect a swimming hole as you could ever want. The pool is spring-fed and the water is crystal-clear and slightly warm. Its average depth is 1.6 meters, meaning you can really swim here, not just soak. In fact, La Selvita covers three hectares, so it’s 24 times bigger than an Olympic pool. Best of all, you are never alone when you jump into La Selvita because you are always in the company of majestic ahuehuetes, “old men of the water.”
These are Montezuma bald cypresses — the Mexican national tree — and may range in age from 350 to 500 years. Señor Justo Torres, manager of this little park, says the entrance fee is only 60 pesos for adults and camping can be arranged. Call him at 333 129 3842. This little gem is located 67 kilometers east of Guadalajara and just 30 north of Lake Chapala. To get there, input H7W3+99 Tototlan, Jalisco in Google Maps. Tototlán, by the way, means “the place of the birds.”
The Blue Holes
Each pool lies at the foot of a picturesque cascade. The water is perfectly clean, pleasantly warm, and you could float on your back for hours just watching the blue and red dragonflies float by. The falls are located in an impressive canyon at the edge of the town of Tequila, and you can walk to them from your car in 30 minutes.
Note, however, that the Machu Picchu-like trail is very steep in places. You need to be fit and wearing sturdy hiking shoes. Ask Google Maps to take you to V5VF+35J Tequila, Jalisco. Then ask local people for someone who can guide you to Los Azules. Note that GPS reception is not good in the canyon. Go with a local guide.
Primavera natural sites
Sprawling Bosque la Primavera, located just west of Guadalajara, offers you the choice of man-made balnearios (water parks) as well as a few natural swimming or bathing holes.
Rancho Ecoturistico Agua Dulce (Sweet Water) is named after a cold spring arising from a classic water hole, the source of a beautiful little river perfect for kids to frolic in. It’s one of those few places where you can literally drink the water you’re bathing in. The Rancho also has restrooms, zip lines, ponies, and a tower from which you can see for miles. To get there, ask Google Maps to take you to M9XJ+RCV El Roble, Jalisco.
Soak in the Salty River
If warm, salty water is more your style, bypass Agua Dulce and go to Rio Salado just 1.3 kilometers down the road at M9RP+RPC El Roble, Jalisco, and pick your spot alongside the picturesque river.
It’s not deep enough for swimming, but rocks in the highly mineralized stream create a Jacuzzi effect that will bubble all your troubles away.
Rio Caliente
If it’s seriously hot water you’re after, you are on the right river, but at the wrong end. The northern part of the Río Salado is called Río Caliente, and you have to go through the little town of La Primavera to reach it. Four kilometers south of the town, you will come to a large parking lot which can get quite busy on weekends — not to mention Holy Week when everyone and his abuelita head for Rio Caliente.
On a typical weekday, there are few people about, and you can take your choice of four pools near the parking lot where the river has been dammed up, each a different degree of “hot.” In some of these, you can actually swim a few meters.
You’ll find the parking lot at MCMC+3PH La Primavera, Jalisco.
Huaxtla
Huaxtla is a small town located 22 kilometers due north of Guadalajara. As you drive toward this pueblito, you’ll skirt Jaguar Canyon, famous for its stupendous waterfalls, most of which fall into delightful pools.
In the past, these could only be appreciated by die-hard canyoneers.
Today, thanks to local entrepreneurs, there’s an easy-to-reach campground at the edge of the canyon with a well-marked trail leading down to three of the natural swimming holes, each at the base of a waterfall, of course.
Camping under the stars
The campground has toilets and is a great place to observe stars of both the shooting and more stationary sort. The trail to the pools is one kilometer long, steep in places and quite scenic. You’ll find the water very cold here all year round: perhaps best appreciated in the hot month of May. Note that this canyon should only be visited in the dry season, due to the possibility of flash floods. To reach the trailhead and campgrounds, ask Google Maps to take you to WJP3+JHQ Huaxtla, Jalisco.
When you visit one of these still natural sites, take a picture. Next time you go there, you may find a full-blown balneario instead.