No sooner had our heads begun to clear and trembling pets emerged from hiding places in the wake of Ajijic’s rowdy San Andrés fiestas, than the daily roar of sky rockets resumed, this time blasting out on the west side of the village where the novenario honoring the Virgin of Guadalupe runs from December 4 through 12.
A similar scenario leading into one of Mexico’s most fervently celebrated religious holidays is playing out in Chapala, San Antonio Tlayacapan, San Juan Cosalá, Jocotepec and every other town along Lake Chapala’s shoreline, as the faithful manifest their devotion to their number one spiritual patroness.
The festivities will peak here and elsewhere across the nation on Tuesday, December 12, the Feast of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. That’s the day to catch one of lakeside’s colorful street processions, starting between 4 and 6 p.m. depending upon the location. The religious cavalcades feature the sights of adorable toddlers dressed in native Indian costumes, scenic floats, ritual dance troupes, marching bands, charro horsemen and the indispensable coheteros armed with huge bundles of rockets shot off along the way to mark the pilgrims’ progress.
Traditional street fairs generally follow evening church services, continuing into the wee hours as revelers indulge in plentiful food, drink, music and fireworks galore.
Many local families maintain the custom of setting up artistically arranged doorstep shrines devoted to the iconic dark-skinned Virgin. Centered around a cherished household image of Guadalupe, the altars are commonly adorned with Mexican flags, paper banners or streamers in the national colors, live plants and floral arrangements (particularly roses), votive candles, and strings of sparkling holiday lights.