While Christmas festivities in the Lake Chapala area are wrapped in modern day secular glitter, most folks still cling to long-held customs focused on the reason for the season.
Village children get a dose of religious instruction mixed with holiday fun by taking part in Las Posadas, the neighborhood processions held on nine consecutive days prior to Christmas Day.
The traditional Posada (meaning inn or lodging) is a reenactment of the Holy Family’s search for shelter in Bethlehem, as told in the Gospel of Luke. The practice traces back to a 16th century method of indoctrination into the Christian faith attributed to the Augustinian friars of San Agustin de Acolman, near Mexico City. The novenario (novena) was celebrated as a replacement for the Aztec rituals honoring the sun god Huitzilopochtli held in conjunction with the winter solstice.
As commonly observed today, crowds of kids gather every afternoon from December 16 through 24 to wander the streets following a young pair playing the roles of Mary and Joseph. For authenticity, the Virgin Mother may ride perched on the back of a live burro led by her spouse. The rest of the entourage often appears with one or more dressed up as angels and others as pastores y pastoras (shepherds and shepherdesses), carrying tinsel-wrapped báculos (walking staffs) and faroles (paper lanterns).
The parade follows a predetermined route, halting at several addresses to knock at the door.
At each stop the children croon verses of a traditional litany asking the “inn-keepers” behind the door to provide shelter for the night. A chorus of voices from inside responds in alternate stanzas, repeatedly turning away the Santos Peregrinos (Holy Pilgrims) until they reach the final destination where they are allowed to take refuge in the stable. A happy fiesta ensues, complete with piñata smashing, hand-outs of bolos (goodie bags), and holiday refreshments.
The charming Posada processions in San Antonio Tlayacapan stand out for their spiritual content, including prayers, readings from scripture, traditional Mexican carols and live tableaux representing Biblical passages that are set up in front of various households along the way. Look for the starting time and routes for each day posted at the church entrance.
Ajijic’s Posada series gets under way December 16, departing from the San Andrés atrium between 4:30 and 5 p.m. to end near the corner of Zaragoza and Colón. The processions spread to other village neighborhoods on subsequent dates.
The Chapala government will host a Posada celebration Saturday, December 17, 7 p.m., in front of City Hall, and another Monday, December 19, same time, at the Ajijic plaza.
Enquire among Mexican neighbors, local shops or church staff for time and location details in other lakeshore communities. Expats should feel confident that they will be welcome to tag along as spectators of these colorful festivities.