The Feast of the Three Kings will be celebrated all over Mexico next week, but nowhere with greater devotion and religious fervor than in Cajititlán de los Reyes.
Every year as many as two million visitors swarm the backwater fishing village between December 30 and January 8 for festivities dedicated to spiritual patrons Gaspar, Melchior and Balthazar, collectively known as Los Santos Reyes (Holy Kings).
In a spiritual context, the January 6 Día de Reyes (Epiphany) holiday commemorates the revelation of the Messiah to humankind, as symbolized by the legendary quest of the Wisemen of the Orient who tracked the star of Bethlehem to pay homage to the newborn Christ Child.
Cajititlán attracts pilgrims coming from near and far to seek favors and offer thanks for blessings received through the divine graces of Santos Reyes.
In many respects, the scenario resembles patron saint festivities celebrated in other communities. Visitors encounter street vendors hawking religious trinkets, typical foods, spirits and other merchandise, along with mechanical rides, games of chance, blaring music, colorful religious processions and the constant onslaught of noisy fireworks that invariably go with the territory. In contrast, the Fiesta de Reyes highlights intriguing customs rooted in more than three centuries of history.
As the celebration gets underway, pews are removed from the floors of the 18th century stone-faced parish church to accommodate throngs of pilgrims who come inside for close contact with the majestic images of the Santos Reyes to capture a touch of their mystical powers. Church staffers stand by to collect clothing items or other personal belongings, brushing them against the kings’ regal robes. Entire families file through an adjacent chapel, huddling together while the Sacristan wraps them under capes worn by the Reyes in previous years.
Moms and dads often dress their offspring in tiny capes and shiny paper crowns as a sign of faith that the Magi will help fend off childhood illnesses. Many stop at the chapel altar to deposit tokens of appreciation for answered prayers-a photo of the beloved infant, a votive candle, a tiny crown or a small coffer representing the Wisemen’s gifts to the Baby Jesus.
Traditional Pastorelas (Shepherd’s Plays) and age-old native dances are performed intermittently on the esplanade just outside the church.
Curiously, the best date to catch daytime fiesta action is not the actual Día de Reyes, but on January 7, the day when images of the Santos Reyes are carted out of the church around 10 a.m. for a spectacular procession.
Ritual danzante troupes decked out in elaborate costumes lead the entourage that winds through main streets for more than two hours. Once the dancers pass by, the devout jam the pathway, crouching down deep as the Kings are hoisted overhead one by one. At the end of the route the statues are boarded on a trio of motor boats for a cruise around the lake. After docking at the waterfront Malecón, porters haul the images back to the church for a festive celebration of the Mass.
Cajititlán lies about ten kilometers off the Guadalajara-Chapala highway, accessed from the well-marked turn-off located about halfway between Chapala and the Guadalajara airport. Visitors should anticipate leaving their vehicles at one of the many provisional parking lots set up on the village outskirts. Sturdy walking shoes are recommended for safely hiking into the center of town.