Thousands of pilgrims are starting to swarm the rural village of Cajititlan de los Reyes this weekend to demonstrate their devotion to the town’s religious patrons Gaspar, Melchior and Balthazar, better known as the Wisemen of the Orient.
While all of Mexico celebrates the legendary Reyes Magos and their star-guided trek to Bethlehem on January 6, the feast of Epiphany, Cajititlan holds a prolonged celebration running from December 30 through January 8.
Curiously, the date to catch daytime fiesta action at its best is not the actual Día de Reyes, but on January 7, the day when the life-sized images of the Santos Reyes are carted out of the church around 10 a.m. for a spectacular procession.
Ritual danzante troupes decked out in elaborate costumes lead the entourage that winds through main streets for more than two hours. Once the dancers pass by, the devout jam the pathway, crouching down deep as the Kings are hoisted overhead one by one.
At the end of the route the statues are boarded on a trio of motor boats for a cruise around the lake. After docking at the waterfront Malecón, porters haul the images back to the church for a festive celebration of the Mass.
As the fiestas get underway, pews are removed from inside the 18th century stone-faced parish church to accommodate throngs of visitors who come to capture a touch of mystical powers. Church staffers stand by to collect clothing items or other personal belongings, brushing them against the kings’ regal robes. Entire families file through an adjacent chapel, huddling together while the Sacristan wraps them under capes worn by the Reyes in previous years.
Moms and dads often dress their offspring in tiny capes and shiny paper crowns as a sign of faith that the Magi will help fend off childhood illnesses. Many stop at the chapel altar to deposit tokens of appreciation for answered prayers-a photo of the beloved infant, a votive candle, a tiny crown or a small coffer representing the Wisemen’s gifts to the Baby Jesus.
Traditional pastorelas (shepherd’s plays) and age-old native dances are performed intermittently on the esplanade just outside the church.
Cajititlan lies about ten kilometers off the Guadalajara-Chapala highway, accessed from the well-marked turn-off about halfway between Chapala and the Guadalajara airport.
Visitors should anticipate leaving their vehicles at one of the many provisional parking lots set up on the village outskirts. Sturdy walking shoes are recommended for safely traversing cobblestone streets leading into the center of town.