For nearly 4 years now, a mixed group of expats and Mexicans have been scouring the back roads of Jalisco in search of old haciendas.
They call themselves Cazadores de Haciendas or Hacienda Hunters. Jim Cook, their leader, moved to Ajijic from Oregon in 2007 with his wife Carole. Always an avid student of history, Cook has made it a point to learn as much as possible about Mexican history and culture, especially haciendas.
The first hacienda that peaked Cook’s interest was Hacienda La Calera. He noticed the old brick arches of its ruined bodega while returning to Ajijic from the Guadalajara airport. The site is located on the west side of the Carretera, about halfway between Chapala and the airport. It’s origins are unclear, but it was probably founded in the mid-17th century. By the time of the Independence War, Hacienda La Calera had become a great estate.
During the chaos of the war, the estate was abandoned and many records were lost, which is the reason why the hacienda’s founding date is not clear. The property wasn’t restored until 1843. Its original name was Hacienda San Diego, but that was changed in the late 19th century to La Calera, which means “limestone quarry.” The Cuesta Gallardo family, who bought the hacienda in 1895, renamed it when they began large scale mining of cal (lime) on the property. Between 1920 and 1950, Hacienda La Calera belonged to the family of President Alvaro Obregon. In 1950, the family voluntarily distributed the hacienda’s lands to local residents.
The first hacienda that Cook was able to actually visit was Hacienda San Francisco. He found it accidentally, in Tizapan, on Lake Chapala’s south shore. While examining a local map, Jim noticed markings indicating some hacienda ruins. After locating the site, he took extensive photographs and began piecing together its history, which dates back to the 16th century. This experience spiked his curiosity about these old estates and he began to research as many locations as he could find.
Jim discovered that these adventures are more fun when done with companions, so he decided to recruit other people to go out with him, such as his good friend and fellow hiker, Jim Boles. They began planning regular outings, bringing along several hiking friends. High clearance vehicles were often essential, since many of these sites are considerable distances down rugged farm roads.
These monthly, day-long excursions have been happening for about 4 years now and Jim’s list of participants has grown to about 40 people. Many have been along at least once; others numerous times. Generally, the hunters visit about four haciendas a day, depending on how far they need to travel and how much trouble they have locating a particular site.
Jim limits the number of hunters on each excursion to how many will comfortably fit into 2-3 cars, which works out to about 8-12 people on any particular Hacienda Hunt. Everyone brings along food and, come lunchtime, they find a sweet spot at a hacienda that they’re visiting or some other attractive location and share a picnic while chatting about their discoveries.
There were a number of haciendas around Lake Chapala, including Hacienda Cuije, which encompassed most of what is now Ajijic. Restaurant Maria Isabel, by the Ajijic pier, used to be the hacienda’s corn mill. A conquistador named Saenz (a cousin of Hernán Cortés) acquired the property and, by 1530, had founded Hacienda Cuije. The mill Saenz built was used to grind the corn produced by the indigenous people. The miller blew a conch shell to summon them to bring their corn. The mill remained in operation until the 1940s and some portions of it are still part of the current restaurant’s property.
Another local hacienda, now in ruins, is Hacienda San Nicholas de La Labor, located just east of Chapala, off the road to Mezcala. Recently, the Hacienda Hunters visited Hacienda San Nicolás, along with Hacienda Cedros and Hacienda San José de Buenavista. Both of these are located along the carretera between Chapala and the Guadalajara Airport. Hacienda Cedros is just west of the carretera and Buenavista is on the east side.
Since their arrival in Ajijic, the Cooks have visited many of Mexico’s colonial cities and ancient pre-hispanic ruins. They chronicle their journeys in their photo-journal blog called “Jim and Carole’s Mexico Adventure” (cookjmex.blogspot.mx). Since its inception in 2007, the blog has attracted more than onr million page-views from people living in 130 countries. Viewers residing on every continent, including Antarctica, have logged-on. Cook’s stories and photos have been published in the Living at Lake Chapala website, as well as the Ojo del Lago and Lake Chapala Review. His photos have also been published in several books, including “Mexico in Flames” by Danish historian Erik Somer, a book about the Mexican War of Independence. Mexican historian Arturo Rocha also used some of Jim’s photos for his book, “La llave de Guadalupe,” about the pre-hispanic roots of the Virgin of Guadalupe. In 2015, Cambridge University Press included some of Jim’s photos in a newly published textbook. This year, a documentary film company sought permission to use his photos of ancient Toltec ruins. When completed, the documentary will be shown on the History Channel.
If you’re interested in participating in a hacienda hunt, email Cook at: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..">.