Temacapulín – called Temaca by locals – is a pretty little town located 85 kilometers northeast of Guadalajara in Los Altos, the Jalisco Highlands.
In October 2010 it became the focus of international attention when “dam-affected” people from all over the world gathered in Temaca to support the townspeople in their struggle against a government plan to build the Zapotillo Dam on the Río Verde and flood the area.
I recently learned that an 80-year-old local man named Don Alfonso “Poncho” Íñiguez leads a hike every month into a beautiful protected bosque threatened by the flood waters, and I accepted an invitation to tag along.
We met at El Mesón Mamá Tachita, a restaurant operated by Don Poncho, who would be our guide on the hike.
We headed south out of town through a big cow pasture toward Arroyo Colorado, a tributary of the Verde River. Near a stone wall literally smothered in lichen, our attention was directed to two parallel garden hoses on the ground.
“One of these carries our town’s water supply and the other is a backup,” said Don Poncho. “We are going to take a hike out to the spring where this water comes from.” Others in the group then explained that in most Mexican cities and towns, six out of every ten liters produced by water purification plants are lost by leakage from cracked water pipes. “Only four out of ten ever make it into people’s homes,” said researcher Miguel Angel Casillas, “but here we don’t lose a drop.”
The people of Temaca were making the point that if Mexican towns need more water, they could start by installing good water pipes, rather than by constructing dams that displace people like themselves.
The dam problem at Temacapulín began – according to my informants – in 2005 with a project that local people were never asked about. Today, at a cost of 16 billion pesos, the dam is 80 meters high, but its gates remain open due to ongoing legal suits in several courts. “When they close the gates “three towns will disappear,” I was told.
We were now crossing a wide pasture, trying our best to avoid stepping into a minefield of bovine droppings. “We call these cow pies ‘boñigas’ said Don Poncho. “They make excellent cooking fuel.
Winding our way through countless thorn bushes, we came to the Arroyo Colorado, along which a river flows most of the year. To my surprise, I discovered that the riverbed is a very long, narrow strip of basalt, created by a tongue of lava which flowed along this geological fault long ago.
“This arroyo is black, not colorado,” I quipped.
“This time of year there’s only a trickle of water,” they told me. “But come back in the rainy season and this turns into a wide, red river.”
The hike now involved scrambling over or around giant basalt boulders without falling into the river. Octogenarian Don Poncho nimbly hopped from rock to rock like a squirrel and never broke a sweat. It must be those chili peppers I saw him nibbling on for breakfast, I thought.
The further south we ventured, the higher the sheer canyon walls rose on both sides of the river. Along the way, we were joined by the local priest and his dogs.
“He’s a heroic padre, someone whispered to me. “The Church told him to stay out of local politics – meaning this dam issue – but he paid no heed. He’s as much an activist as the rest of us.
We kept boulder scrambling for a kilometer until we reached a high spot on the river bank where the black hoses came to an end, connected to a concrete holding tank into which delicious spring water was flowing. Here Don Poncho built a fire and toasted tortillas on hot coals, without using a comal. I think it must have been this method of heating which turned the avocado tacos I ate into gourmet delights.
From this point we returned via a trail paralleling the river. Along the way, Miguel Angel told me he has almost completed the thesis for his doctorate. The subject? Not surprisingly: a study of people around the world who have been displaced because of dam construction.
They told me that the Zapotillo Dam could eventually reach a height of 105 meters and will one day be operational. So if you want to visit Temacapulín and hike up the Arroyo Colorado, don’t wait too long. By the way, I was told they will hold a chili pepper festival here on the last day of August, in case you’d like to add hot peppers to your breakfast menu ... and maybe beat Don Poncho up the arroyo
How to get there
Head north from Guadalajara on the Highway 80 toll road, following the signs to Tepatitlán and Lagos de Moreno. A few kilometers after Tepatitlán, at N20.89786 W102.70326, take the Pegueros exit and follow the “libre” road 21 kilometers northeast to Highway 207, at N21.04670 W102.58355, where you must turn and drive north another 15 kilometers toward Cañadas de Obregon and Temacapulín. The Mamá Tachita restaurant is at one end of the plaza. Here you will find Don Poncho or, if you prefer you can follow my Wikiloc.com route “Arroyo Colorado Temaca” for your hike. Driving time from Guadalajara about two hours.