Religious pageants highlight Lakeside Easter observances

Dramatic representations of the Passion of Christ – commonly referred to as the Via Crucis or Judea Viviente – will be the highpoint of Semana Santa (Holy Week) observances held over the coming week in the predominantly Roman Catholic communities in Lake Chapala as in the rest of Mexico.

These colorful public spectacles – drawn primarily from Biblical accounts of the teachings of Jesus, his Crucifixion and Resurrection – go to the core of the Christian faith, arising from methods of evangelization introduced by Spanish missionaries who arrived in Mexico nearly 500 years ago.  Evolving over three decades, the Passion Play programs presented in Ajijic and San Antonio Tlayacapan feature stunning pageantry that puts them on a par with the renowned productions staged in Mexico City’s Ixtapalapa delegation and closer by in San Martin de las Flores on the outskirts of Tlaquepaque.

Organized by amateur theatrical companies working with local churches, the presentations reflect the intense work of hundreds of volunteers who participate as actors, technical crews, stage hands, set builders, costume makers, makeup artists and support teams. Creativity and artistic talents are reflected in production details that strive to bring scripture to life with color, drama, historical authenticity and profound religious devotion.

Events Calendar

The following calendar highlights Semana Santa activities in Chapala, San Antonio and Ajijic. Similar programs will take place in other lakeshore towns.

Bear in mind that times listed on the schedule are approximate, as released to the press.  Spectators often assemble an hour or more in advance to gain the best viewing spots. All those attending these events are advised to dress appropriately in accordance with prevailing day and evening weather and temperatures. Those choosing to follow moving sequences should wear walking shoes appropriate for safely navigating cobblestones and rough terrain.

Motorists would do well to avoid road travel in the immediate vicinity while special events are in progress. Residents are asked to cooperate in keeping parked vehicles off the streets where and when processions are taking place.

Palm Sunday – April 1

Domingo de Ramos processions recreate the tale of Jesus and his Disciples making their triumphal entry into Jerusalem, with a faithful throng tagging along behind the actors waving herbal bouquets, decorative palm fronds or wheat sprig figurines blessed by the clergy. Vendors will haunt the streets to sell hand-crafted accoutrements for the occasion.

Chapala: The procession gathers at the municipal soccer field at the north end of Avenida Madero, departing 9:30 a.m. to follow the main thoroughfare to the San Francisco church atrium for celebration of the Palm Sunday Mass, 10 a.m..

San Antonio: The procession starts at the corner of Jesus Garcia and Ramon Corona, 1:15 p.m., winding through the village past the Cuatro Cruces (four crosses) via La Paz, San Jose, La Bandera, back to San Jose and on to Ramon Corona to arrive at the San Antonio parish for Mass at 2 p.m.

Ajijic: The procession forms on the west side of town at Seis Esquinas, 6 p.m., setting off along Calle Hidalgo-Parroquia for arrival at the San Andres parish atrium for 7 p.m. Mass. The Pasion de Cristo organizing committee hosts the traditional Jamaica del Pasado (old-fashioned town fair), held on the plaza, 4-11 p.m., with stands offering typical food and games; Mexican clothing suggested.

Maundy Thursday – April 5

Jueves Santo is marked by religious services commemorating the Last Supper. Afterwards, church bells and musical instruments are silenced inside all churches until the conclusion of Saturday’s Easter Vigil.

Chapala: Oracion de los Laudes  morning prayer service, 8 a.m., San Francisco parish.  Visits to the Seven Temples, 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., going in sequence to the following churches: San Francisco, El Carmen, Santuario de Guadalupe, El Refugio, San Francisquito, San Miguel and Lourdes. Mass, with celebration of the Last Supper and Blessing of the Bread, held at San Francisco, El Carmen, Guadalupe and Refugio churches, 6 p.m.

San Antonio: Last Supper celebrated at the village parish, 7 p.m. Afterwards the Via Crucis Viviente opens with sequences spanning from the Last Supper to the Trial of Jesus, handsomely staged at the Teatro del Pueblo, located in the courtyard of the Cuauhtemoc elementary school opposite the church. Original musical score composed by Paris Diaz, performed live by the CREM Orchestra.

Ajijic: Celebration of the Last Supper, 6 p.m., followed by Mass, 7 p.m., at San Andres. Passion Play sequences begin with Prayers in the Garden of Gethsemane, Christ’s final teachings to his Disciples and the Kiss of Judas, staged on the mountainside at the top of Calle Juarez, 9 p.m. Torch-bearing Pharisees and soldiers arrive to apprehend Jesus, leading him away in shackles in a torch-light march to the plaza via Colon, continuing with scenes of Judgment before the Sanhedrin presented in front of the Rosario Chapel.

Good Friday– April 2

Viernes Santo is a prescribed day of fasting and abstinence. Representations of the Via Crucis (Way of the Cross) climax with the Crucifixion and burial scenes. Following somber evening church services lasting around two hours, the faithful parade through darkened streets to mourn the death of Christ with La Marcha de Silencio, a chilling procession that is mute except for the sound of shuffling feet and chains dragged along the ground.

Chapala: The Santo Via Crucis Viviente, now in its third year, begins at 9 a.m. with scenes of the Last Supper through the Trial of Jesus. The Way of the Cross follows, traveling along Paseo Ramon Corona and Calle Zaragoza to end with enactment of the Crucifixion in a field near the Guadalupe Sanctuary. Church services will be held throughout the afternoon and evening, followed by the Marcha de Silencio.

San Antonio: The Via Crucis picks up again, 12:30 p.m., with the trek to Calvary starting at the east end of town, Calle Ramon Corona at Arroyo Hondo, running straight across Ramon Corona to a vacant lot at the street’s west end. Following the Crucifixion scene, the body of Christ is carried the church atrium to be laid to rest in his tomb. Passion of Christ service at the church, 5 p.m. The Marcha de Silencio departs the parish 9 p.m., marking the route of the Four Crosses and returning to the church for the Rosary of Condolences, 10 p.m.

Ajijic: Sequences of Christ’s trial before Herod and condemnation by Pontius Pilate, 11 a.m., are played out on a stunning scenic backdrops in the San Andres atrium. The Via Crucis follows, with performers and spectators accompanying Jesus as he bears a heavy wooden cross to the Crucifixion site, taking Calles Parroquia and Juarez to the same mountainside spot of Thursday night. The Disciples carry Christ back to the center of town to a burial scene inside the church. Lecture of the Passion of Christ and Rosary of Condolences devotions at San Andres begin at 8 p.m., followed by the Marcha de Silencio through the heart of the village.

Holy Saturday – April 3

Evening Easter Vigil services end with the rekindling of the sacred altar lights and the Pasqual Candle, after which church bells will peal anew to herald the Risen Christ. The evening caps off between 11 p.m. and midnight with the traditional Quema de Judas, when whimsical papier maché effigies symbolizing evil are strung up and blown to bits with strings of noisy firecrackers.

Chapala: Solemn Vigilia Pascual Easter Vigil services at San Francisco, El Carmen, Guadalupe and Refugio churches start at 9 p.m. Judas figures burnt outside city hall.

San Antonio: Oracion de Laudes morning prayers at the parish, 7 a.m. Blessing of the New Fire new fire ceremony starts at the waterfront Malecon, 9 p.m. Vigilia Pascual at the church, starting 10 p.m., includes Via Crucis Viviente players reenacting the Resurrection.

Ajijic: Easter Vigil, 8 to 10 p.m., at San Andres, with the Passion Play cast appearing to portray the Resurrection. The Quema de Judas is held afterwards at the plaza.

Easter Sunday – April 3

As a day of Holy obligation for the faithful, all local churches schedule services throughout the day. San Antonio celebrates the holiday with Marcha de Alegria lively parade around the village, departing from the parish, 8:30 p.m.