Even though more and more American White Pelicans (Pelecanus erythrorhynchos) are attracted to the western shores of Lake Chapala, the little town of Petatán, Michoacán, at the far eastern end, is still the place to see these beautiful birds in flocks of hundreds and sometimes thousands, as they fly in for their daily dinner, supplied by the folks who fillet fish there for several commercial enterprises.
How much longer will they be around?” we asked a local fisherman on Saint Patrick’s Day. “Two, maybe three more weeks,” he predicted, “si Diós quiere.”
At Petatán, some four tons of stripped fish are dumped into the water at irregular moments throughout each work day, causing the pelicans to crowd around, but always maintaining a certain order and dignity which is quite impressive. The convenient places to view the show are several restaurants right on the shore, whose specialty, of course is sea food. The best we’ve found so far, for both view and good eating, is El Pescador.
On this visit, we thought we might get closer to the birds and enjoy a different perspective by renting a boat for a little while. Well, our perspective was different alright, but the wary pelicans gave our lancha a wide berth. While riding the waves, however, we had ample time to chat with our captain who told us that this year they’ve seen more pelicans than ever before, probably due to the unusually cold temperatures further north. “What do you think about all these feathered fishermen?” we asked him. “Aren’t they competing with you?”
Our boatmen also told us that the first pelican to arrive each year is a grey old-timer they call “El Jefe” who checks things out before the others come gliding in a day or so later.
It is said that some 260,000 pelicans participate in the annual migration and most of them winter at Lake Chapala.
As for the day of their departure, our boatmen mentioned that, contrary to what we had previously heard, the pelicans eat very little the day before their departure. Early the next morning at sunrise, after a winter of fun in the sun with free meals to boot, they spiral up into the air in long, orderly queues of 500 or so, and start their 3,876-kilometer journey back to British Colombia, Alberta, Ontario and Manitoba, for breeding.
To enjoy the spectacle, be sure to go on a weekday as there’s no fish handout on Sunday and they don’t even bother to show up. But hurry, that “early April” departure date is very flexible, to say the least.
How to get there
From Guadalajara, take Highway 54 towards Colima. Take the Morelia (also labeled Jiquílpan or Mazamitla) turnoff after about 40 kilometers and drive toward Jocotepec. Pass the Jocotopec turnoff and follow the road south and then east along the lake, passing Tuxcueca, Mismaloya and Tizapán. Twenty kilometers past Tizapán, turn left and drive into Petatán. In the town, keep left at every opportunity and – just under a kilometer from the highway – you will reach a string of feeding spots, unmarked in any way except for the gathering pelicans. If you’re eating at El Pescador Restaurant, your GPS should read N20 09.692 W102 51.943. Driving time from Guadalajara is one hour and 35 minutes. From Jocotepec it’s about one hour.