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Return to the forgotten pyramid of El Saucillo

“I just bought a Suzuki Jimny,”  announced my friend José Luis Zavala. “and I need to evaluate its four-wheel-drive capabilities. Where should I take it for a good test?”


pg8a“You have bought the ideal vehicle for exploring the outdoor sites of Western Mexico,”  I told Dr. Zavala, who teaches Biology at Guadalajara’s Autonomous University (UAG). “The Jimny uses very little fuel and my friend Flaco claims he has yet to encounter a destination it can’t reach.”

Both Francisco “Flaco” Arreola and José Luis Zavala happened to be free the following weekend, so I suggested we visit the circular pyramid of El Saucillo, located in the foothills of Tequila Volcano at the end of an eight-kilometer-long dirt road, much of which I would definitely classify as “bad.”

The very badness of that road, in fact, is what doomed El Saucillo as a tourist attraction along with a nearby bird-watching site called UMA Agua Blanca. I described these sites in volume II of our book “Outdoors in Western Mexico,” but I wonder if even one reader ever made it there.

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Lake Chapala’s Estramancia Vineyard: A not-so-crazy dream come true

Lake Chapala’s mild climate, elevation, and volcanic soil combine to make it an ideal place to grow grapes.

At present, there are seven vineyards, mainly along the south shore, and many more in the early stages of development.

Perhaps the most visited viñedo in the Chapala area is Finca La Estramancia, a pioneering, family-run boutique vineyard famed for its very popular tapas pairings, and easily reachable by boat from the north shore.


pg8aFor Estramancia’s owner, Gerardo Torres González, developing his vineyard was literally a dream come true.

“It all began when I turned 50,” Torres told me. “I had had a successful career as a lawyer, and now I was ready to do something completely different. Because my wife, Ana María, and I had met and fallen in love in Chapala, we decided to move out of Guadalajara and live near the lake. But prices were very high on the north shore, thanks to all the foreigners living there, so we decided to take a look at the south side. There we found a small tract of land for sale, but full of thorny huisache trees. So we cleared the land and started constructing our home.”

At this point, Torres and his wife took a trip to Germany for a vacation, ending up on a small boat on the Rhine River.

“One morning, on the boat, I suddenly woke up from a dream, in which I had been standing on the shore of Lake Chapala, looking up at the hills,” he told me. “But in my dream, those hills were completely covered in vineyards, just like you see all along the Rhine River. And there I was, walking among them. It made me feel completely at peace.”

Torres said when he returned and told people about his dream of vineyards along the lake shore, most told him he was “loco” (crazy). Nonetheless, he decided he had to try growing grapes on his land and managed to acquire 100 Tempranillo vines.

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“But for a crazy project, this turned out to be a big success,” Torres continued, “Soon we had lots and lots of beautiful grapes. The question was how we were going to turn them into wine. I had no experience in this line whatsoever. Of course, we went to YouTube and sought out how to make wine.

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A Canadian’s obsession with Mexico’s cenotes

The word cenote comes from the Mayan tz’onot, meaning “sacred well,” and refers to any one of 10,000 surface entrances to water-filled limestone caves beneath the Mexican states of Yucatan and Quintana Roo.

Stop-start GDL-PV ‘Short Route’ back on track?

March 1, Mexico’s Ministry of Infrastructure, Communications and Transportation (SICT) put into operation the second section of the 86.5-kilometer-long Las Varas-Puerto Vallarta toll road, adding another important step in finishing the “Via Corta” that will shorten the driving time between Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta/Riviera Nayarit.