Last updateFri, 21 Sep 2018 10am

Return to the Ceboruco Volcano: Lush vegetation, hissing fumaroles, glorious panoramas & mysterious night visitor

Ceboruco Volcano looms 2,260 meters high above the little town of Jala, Nayarit, located 120 kilometers northwest of Guadalajara.

If I had a guest with time to visit only one of western Mexico’s volcanoes, I would take that person straight to Ceboruco, which is not only scenic and exciting, but boasts an access road that has been continuously well-maintained for decades.

My friend Rodrigo Orozco had been dying to go there for a long time, but I recommended waiting until the rainy season ended so we could spend the night, allowing us plenty of time to hike to the volcano’s dramatic crater.

I described Ceboruco in Chapter 29 of “Outdoors in Western Mexico,” but I hadn’t been back there in at least ten years, plenty of time for things to have changed significantly. Would I find it as fascinating as ever?

We left Guadalajara at 8 a.m. on a Saturday and 90 minutes later found ourselves at the foot of the massive volcano on a road newly paved with two thin lines of bricks. Lush vegetation sprinkled with wildflowers formed a sort of tunnel overhead and around the first bend we spotted two beautiful West Mexican chachalacas (galliform birds) that seemed to be saying, “Bienvenidos a Nayarit!”

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