As the Christmas season goes into full swing this weekend, Lake Chapala area residents will have multiple opportunities to attend special events and observe traditional Mexican holiday customs.
Most of these long-standing practices trace back to the 16th century methods of indoctrination into the Christian faith introduced by Franciscan missionaries in the immediate aftermath of the Spanish conquest.
Posadas
The festivities kick off with nine consecutive days of neighborhood processions known as Las Posadas, running from December 16 through Christmas Eve.
Crowds of youngsters gather each afternoon to reenact the Holy Family’s quest for lodging in Bethlehem. The procession is usually headed by a pair of children dressed for the roles Mary and Joseph, with the Virgin Mother sometimes perched on a live burro. They are followed by other tots representing pastores y pastoras (shepherds and shepherdesses), often decked out in colorful handmade costumes and carrying brightly decorated báculos (walking staffs) and faroles (paper lanterns).
The parade of santos peregrinos (Holy Pilgrims) makes several stops along the way at designated addresses where they croon verses of a traditional litany asking the “inn-keepers” behind the door to provide shelter for the night. Voices from inside, replying in alternate stanzas, turn them away.
At the final destination the hosts chant that there is no room in the posada (inn), but they are welcome to take refuge in the stable. The doors are flung open and all are invited to enter. A happy fiesta ensues, complete with piñata smashing, hand-outs of bolos (packets of sweets), and holiday refreshments.
Posada processions held in San Antonio Tlayacapan are specially appealing for their authenticity and spiritual content. The little pilgrims line up each day between 6 and 6:30 p.m. at a designated departure point before meandering through the streets as they sing carols and recite prayers. At each stop along the way they find a live tableau representing one of the mysteries of the Nativity created by the resident family.Spectators interested in tagging along should find information posted at the church door explaining the route for any given date. Otherwise the procession can be located by cruising around the center of town to spot the homes where families come out shortly before dusk to clean the street and set up scenery.
Children in Ajijic parade through a different barrio each day, gathering at the atrium of the San Andres church around 4:30 p.m. before they head out to the selected neighborhood.
Pastorelas
Pastorelas (shepherds’ plays) are staged throughout the holiday season by both amateur and professional groups. These theatrical presentations retell the Biblical tale of the shepherds’ star-guided trek to Bethlehem to adore the new born baby Jesus. In the humorous, sometimes irreverent story line, they are plagued along the way by a series of trials and misadventures provoked by the Devil. But in the proverbial all’s-well-that-ends-well finale, good triumphs over evil and the shepherds reach their intended destination.
Two different acting troupes are slated for pastorela performances at the steps of Chapala’s San Francisco Church, both scheduled to follow evening services. The first show is set for Saturday, December 17, starting around 9 p.m. The second group will appear Thursday, December 22, with show time at about 8 p.m.
Nacimientos
The Nativity scene – referred to as el nacimiento or Belen (Bethlehem) – is a core element in Mexican Christmas festivities. While most local families have adopted the foreign practice of decorating their homes with Christmas trees and sparkling electric lights, they still commonly set up a crèche as the focal point, sometimes dedicating an entire room or patio to elaborate landscapes allusive to the birth of Jesus.
Live representations of the Nativity were originated by Saint Francis of Assisi in 1223. Historical records show that the nacimiento viviente was introduced in the central Jalisco town of Tlajomulco as early as 1550.
In recent years, the main churches in Ajijic and Chapala have made a practice of holding one-night exhibitions of a dozen or more live nativities wrapped around cultural themes, with the players appearing in typical costumes of different countries, regions or ethnic groups. The picturesque displays are scheduled for Friday, December 23, 6 to 7 p.m. at the San Francisco parish, and Saturday, December 24, 6:30 to 7:30 p.m. at San Andres.
Mood music
To round out the pre-Christmas calendar, Chapala’s San Francisco Church will host three musical programs, to be held inside the temple following the 7 p.m. celebration of the Mass. A flute concert is set for Monday, December 19. The San Francisco Children’s choir will perform Tuesday, December 20. The Orquesta Tipica de Chapala will appear Wednesday, December 21. All events are open to the public free of charge.