In Guadalajara they tell you to be extra careful when visiting Mexico City. Chilangos, they say, are an untrustworthy lot – they’d steal your last penny if they could. But my brief experience in the capital tells a different story: a remarkable weekend during which, rather than becoming hungry and homeless after my initial plans were somewhat ruptured, I would experience the remarkable kindness of strangers and have my faith in humanity restored in the most unlikely of cities.
After seven hours on the bus from Guadalajara, I arrived in Mexico City wide awake and ready to spend my tourist pesos on all things that could be thrown my way in three days. But after trying every single ATM in the Terminal de Norte and still coming away sans cash, I realized this might be difficult. Similar to the reaction that many of my friends and family had to the idea of me making a solo visit to the second most populated and “reportedly” one of the most dangerous cities in the world, my bank seemed to have shaken its head and decided that no, it could not really be me in Mexico City. That would be crazy; my card must have been stolen by a thieving drug addict: because everyone knows that is what the capital is made up of …
My only card had been blocked and declined. Despite the cheap public transport (three pesos for an endless ride on the subway), I could not even afford to leave the bus station and began to sink into a period of denial, followed by frustration at all the things I would not be able to do and see. But my good fortune began with the tourist information attendant, who emptied her purse of coins and insisted on giving them to me for the metro ride into the center. Later, as I tried my bank card in another ATM, two teenage boys tried to help me, thinking I was confused by the Spanish instructions. While I was inwardly expecting the suspiciously helpful youths to run away with my card, nothing happened: instead, the boys offered to call the bank helpline to report the problem.And so through the process of pure human goodwill, I made it to my (luckily pre-booked) accommodation on the Zócalo: the Hostel Amigo Suites. These quirky, modern digs cost me as little as 150 pesos per night, and included free breakfast and dinner on its impressive roof-terrace, along with free internet access which proved rather useful when my phone ran out of call time.
While the assumed dangers of these central streets kept me apprehensive at first, the buzzing, enormous central plaza had a surprisingly friendly atmosphere, with not only tourists and taco vendors, but resident families enjoying an evening stroll to meet friends. There are, of course, several free things to enjoy around this area, which I took full advantage of. The Metropolitan Cathedral is the oldest and largest in all of Latin America, and is always open for the public to marvel at its tall, ornate ceilings and impressive gold center. There is also a refreshing lack of guilt-tripping beggars and salesmen straddling the entrances, as one is likely to find in Guadalajara and Zapopan.
Just next door to the Cathedral, the 17th-century Palacio Nacional can also be found and entered for free on Sundays, as is the case with most museums in the city. It is here where the famous Diego Rivera murals can be seen, but perhaps just as remarkable to see first hand is the dramatic slope of the palace walls and floor. As is the case with many buildings in a city referred to by locals as DF (Distrito Federal), these huge stone walls are sinking by as much as three inches every year, due to the fact that they lie on soft, aqueous ground. The alarmingly visual rate of change creates a certain kind of urgency for visitors to experience the historical center before the whole area is swallowed up or at least damaged further. It really makes one appreciate the transience of an area which might otherwise be taken for granted and put aside for later.
Walking through the enormous and vibrant Chapultepec park in the afternoon, I stopped by a corner shop to try and put credit on my cell phone. When the credit was already charged to my phone but the card not accepted, panic began to rise within me at a similar rate to the cashier’s growing annoyance. “I’ll be right back, I’ll speak to my bank and try to fix the problem,” I suggested, but “K” was having none of it. I began to envisage having to sell my shoes in return for water and a safe passage home, but before I knew what had happened, the man in the line behind me had paid my entire bill. Where did this threatening and unfriendly city stereotype come from, I wondered with amazement as the kind stranger smiled and walked away.
And that was the feeling which stayed with me for the rest of my trip: in between failed calls to my most unhelpful bank, I strolled through the park and visited the impressive, free zoo which lies in the very center of it. Sunshine, blue skies and not a smog cloud in sight made it impossible to be in a negative mood in this thriving and clean central hub. My evenings were spent in the relaxed, bohemian quarters of Condesa: an area with bars full of tapas, Europeans and their equally well-dressed dogs; a world away from the exhaust-fumed, frantic city I had imagined.
The capital is perfect for art enthusiasts, as there are museums a-plenty. The Museo de Arte Moderno is located in Chapultepec Park and hosts a permanent collection of work from famous artists such as Frida Kahlo, Olga Costa and Diego Rivera.
For art lovers who have a little more time, make sure to visit Frieda Kahlo’s house in the Colonia del Carmen, which is now a museum. Like many things in this pumped up metropolis, getting around this building and surrounding area can take up a whole day, so it is best to choose your priorities wisely. On Sundays many museums are free, although the highly-esteemed Museum of Anthropology, brimming with artifacts and knowledge, will still charge for non-Mexican residents. There are plenty of things to spend money on, but it is certainly true that very little is needed in order to enjoy the many free sights and street entertainment. Not to mention the cheap and appetizing street food and plentiful markets, such as the Centro de Artesanias la Ciudadela (nearest metro stop Balderas), which is a popular choice for arts and crafts.
Buses leave from Guadalajara’s Nueva Central Camionera up to every 20 minutes during peak times, with a return ticket costing around 1,170 pesos; discounts available for students and teachers. I travelled with Primera Plus, which was very comfortable with its onboard movies and complimentary snacks, but there are several different companies of varying classes which go from the same station. ETN is the most upmarket of carriers, with wifi and laid-back seating to rival that of a first-class airplane cabin. With Easter coming up, it’s the perfect time to book a trip and make the most of quieter streets as many locals leave the city and head to the beach for the week. You never know: Mexico City might just surprise you.