Run by the Sisters of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Hermanas del Corazón de Jesús Sacramental), the tiny tamal shop and restaurant (one table) seems to be a favorite of neighbors who heartily attest to the quality and price of the nuns’ beverages, breakfasts, beans, jocoque (a creamy, yogurt-like product) and, of course, their tamales.
“Our favorites are swiss-chard-and-cheese tamales and pineapple atole,” said two middle-aged carry-out patrons on a recent, chilly evening around sunset. Atole is a thick, hot beverage made of a ground corn mixture plus milk, fruit and sugar. A similar drink, champurrado, is made with chocolate (instead of fruit) and piloncillo (brown sugar sold in a cone shapes).
The couple was attended by Irene, a pink-frocked woman who, although not a nun, has worked at the store for 25 years. Based on her experience in the ups and downs of the tamal trade, she explained that she and the sisters are preparing for the imminent, annual surge in tamal demand that happens every year on Día de la Candelaria.
Here is the way it works in the Hispanic Christmas season. The hubbub begins on Christmas Day, followed 12 days later, on January 6, by another feast, El Día de los Reyes Magos (Three Kings Day) which often rivals Christmas, if not in lateness of hour, in gift giving and special food. Three Kings Day celebrates the biblical story of three “wise men” from the East, Melchor, Gaspar and Balthasar, making their way to the baby Jesus and bringing him valuable gifts. Spanish, Mexican and other Latin American children sometimes choose one of the kings and write a letter to him stating their gift preferences, much as other children write letters to Santa Claus. Kids in Hispanic countries may leave out their shoes on the night of January 5 so that the kings can conveniently place gifts in them, as well as goodies to entice the kings to visit, thoughtfully including a bit of straw for their camels to munch on — all an echo of Christmas traditions in other areas.
Another tradition on this day is eating the Rosca de Reyes (Roscón de Reyes in Spain), a ring-shaped cake that is decorated with bright pieces of dried fruit that symbolize the jewels adorning the kings’ garments. The rosca is the key to El Día de la Candelaria 27 days later, because it has a tiny Jesus figure baked into the dough. Whoever gets the baby in their piece of rosca is then obligated to bring tamales for everyone on Día de la Candelaria. Thus, Three Kings Day sets the stage for, about a month later, big-time tamal production at Tamales María del Pilar and other tamal shops.
In Mexico, El Día de la Candelaria is naturally enough pervaded by the influence of corn, although worldwide, February 2 is a gigantic tapestry of diverse strands: in the Canary Islands, a celebration of the apparition of Our Lady of Candelaria, in the town of the same name; in Christianity, the arrival of Mary and Jesus in the temple for a Jewish purification rite; in Spain, lavish parades and bullfights; and even, in the United States, Groundhog Day. In Mexico, Christ Child figures may be dressed up and taken to church and in agricultural areas, seeds may be taken to church to be blessed before planting. But the tamal tradition is strong throughout Mexico, partly because people who care nothing for the religious aspects of the days still enjoy the Rosca de Reyes and, later, the tamales.
Tamales María del Pilar offers a large variety of sweet or savory tamal fillings, including the stock mole rojo and mole verde (spicy, meaty mixtures with red or green salsa), as well as chicken, pineapple, strawberry, Oaxaca style tamales and more. Most cost 12 pesos.
The attendant Irene explained how tamales are made: hand-ground corn is made into dough by adding salt and lard, then put into corn husks, filled, and wrapped and steam-cooked in vaporeras. The sisters sell other handmade products such as rompope (a beverage of rum, milk and vanilla), cookies, and canned fruits.
“The shop was founded to help support the older sisters after they retire,” explained Irene, pointing to two photos on a nearby wall depicting the shop’s founder, Sister María del Pilar, and a priest who founded the order of Hermanas del Corazón de Jesús Sacramental — Saint José María Robles, who was martyred during the Cristero War in 1927.
Tamales María del Pilar, La Reyna 3612, corner of Santa Rita, Colonia Chaplita, about four blocks from glorieta Chapalita. (33) 3122-4295.