Although the 40-day period of Lent is meant to be a time of penance and fasting, one of the guilty pleasures of the season is savoring the wonderful culinary specialties Mexican cooks whip up only at this time of year.
I notice that although the long-held custom of guardando la vigilia — meaning refraining from consuming red meat on Fridays-has been abandoned by even many devout Roman Catholics, many taco stands close for the day while household cooks and restaurant chefs churn out an amazing array of seafood and vegetarian dishes.
My mouth waters at the thought of chowing down on crispy pan-fried potato cakes or croquettes made from all sorts of veggies and grains. Empanadas (pastry turnovers) stuffed with varied sweet and savory fillings are widely available these days, with demand peaking during Holy Week. Even chiles rellenos stuffed with gooey cheese and bathed in tomato caudillo and other standard meatless fare becomes be more popular than ever this time of year.
By far the most popular and satisfying of all Lenten taste treats is capirotada, a sumptuous south-of-the-border version of bread pudding. Essentially it’s a layered concoction usually composed of toasted slices of bread, bathed in home-brewed syrup and enhanced with spices, fruits and nuts. But like nearly all “traditional” recipes, ingredients and cooking techniques vary according to family customs and personal tastes.
A classic capirotada is made with bolillo rolls, similar to the French baguette, piloncillo (unrefined brown sugar cones) melted into a dark treacle infused with cloves and cinnamon sticks, dried and fresh fruits and a slightly salty cheese topping. Some cooks flavor the syrup with tomato and onion. Although that sounds like an odd component for a dessert recipe, it really boosts the umami factor. Raisins, prunes, dates, chunks of plantain, apple, guava and other fruits, along with peanuts, pecans, walnuts, almonds or pine nuts add other flavor profiles. Different types of fresh or aged white cheese may be selected for the salty component.
A sweeter type is capirotada blanca, using similar ingredients that may be combined with picones or other sweet bread varieties, doused with fresh or condensed milk. Modern day gourmet cooks may go out on a limb with more exotic ingredients and fanciful presentations.
Old school cooks prepare the pudding in a large clay cazuela lined with tortillas, put over a low flame on the stovetop. Others prefer glass or metals casseroles and oven baking.
Like so many creative endeavors in this country, capirotada has a symbolic side, related in this case to the Easter season. The bread represents the Body of Christ and the syrup his spilled blood. Cinnamon sticks are reminders of the wooden cross, the raisins its nails. The cheese covering stands for the Holy Shroud.
Lakesiders can to see and sample multiple interpretations of the dish at the fourth annual Feria de la Capirotada, scheduled for Saturday, March 24, 3 to 8 p.m., at the Ajijic Malecón. Find more details on Facebook or call founder Lee Hooper at Cell 334-706-1234.