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Haute Couture principles behind ‘retired’ dressmaker’s new fashion line

 After 35 years in the fashion business in Portland, Oregon, Catherine Stephenson came to Ajijic to retire. Only, like many others, she hasn’t. 

A visit to her Ajijic studio reveals “retired” Stephenson hard at work building an eclectic inventory of women’s garments that she plans to sell directly to the local public. 

After all those years of living in Portland and not wanting to retire in a rainy climate, Stephenson and her husband Allan started visiting Mexico and quickly identified Ajijic as the place they wished to settle. 

“We’ve been in Ajijic for two years,” says Stephenson, “and built the first home at Rancho La Salud, Mexico’s first co-housing community.” Naturally, they made sure to include an expansive studio space for both herself and Allan, an artist and photographer.

Stephenson’s interest in clothing design began in her high school home economics class, where she fell in love with the craft, taking to it “like a fish to water.” She went on to study textiles and clothing at the University of Wisconsin, graduating in 1971.

“I never wanted to work in the ready-to-wear industry,” says Stephenson. “I saw clothing production as an art form, with my interest being in the craftsmanship of clothing production.”

After graduation, Stephenson moved back to Portland where she lived the “hippy” life, met her future husband, married, and opened her home-based, custom clothing business, Catherine Stephenson Couture.

“In my years of dressmaking, I created a mixture of special event clothing for women, such as bridal gowns, evening wear and tailored career.” 

Stephenson chose to have her own business because, she says, “I wanted to be involved in the creative process from the very beginning, which I couldn’t do with ready-to-wear.” Along with working with her clients’ ideas, she patterned, draped, sewed and fitted clothing. “I had no employees. I did it all myself,” she adds proudly. 

Stephenson spent many years studying Haute Couture – the ultimate high fashion that comes out of Paris – along with learning the sewing techniques and history.

“Couture means ‘fine sewing’ and I’ve always used natural fibers, quality fabrics and couture techniques that require lots of hand work, inner support and fine finishing … and I never lacked for business.”

In 1984, Stephenson was a founding member of a national trade association, The Association of Sewing & Design Professionals, which started in Portland as a local guild. “I was instrumental in taking the model for the organization nationally, and served on the national board for many years, including being the national chair.” 

Ten years ago, Stephenson chaired the committee to begin a national certification program for professionals and she continues to chair the board for the Master Sewing & Design Professional Certification Program. “We have numerous professionals around the country who have received MSDP certification or are going through the testing process for certification. This has been a goal of mine since 1984.”

Stephenson also spent many years as an instructor in the apparel design department of the Art Institute of Portland. “My specialities included couture sewing techniques, draping and textiles.” 

“Now that I’m here (in Ajijic),” says Stephenson, “I realize that there isn’t a local market for the kind of dressmaking designs that I created for so many years.” 

She is having fun building an inventory of women’s garments called “Ajijic Chic” which she plans to sell directly from her studio. 

“The clothing is geared toward local women who want to be a little more festive with their clothing, with a focus on brighter colors and prints.” 

Of special interest to Stephenson is the current exhibit in Guadalajara featuring the work of Haute Couturier, Cristobal Balenciaga, one of the top designers of the 20th century, who worked in Paris from 1920s to 1950s. “Balenciago is considered to be one of the most influential designers of 20th century. This is a unique opportunity to see his work while it’s in Mexico.” The exhibit is showing at the University of Guadalajara’s Museo de las Artes (Musa) through February 5.

As if creating Ajijic Chic, plus serving on the board of directors of the Ajijic Society of the Arts, isn’t keeping her busy enough, Stephenson is thinking of offering a weekly sewing workshop for serious students who want to increase their sewing and fitting skills while creating clothing for themselves. Retired? Hardly. 

For information on the museum exhibition, visit musa.udg.mx. To contact Stephenson, email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..">.

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