What started as an introduction to native cacao seeds at a cacao ceremony has turned into a passion and full-time business for Lakeside resident Nora Maldonado. Prior to attending the ceremony near Guadalajara, Maldonado had never tasted native cacao or understood the magic behind the powerful seed that comes from native trees grown in Soconusco, a region in the southwest corner of the state of Chiapas.
Says Maldonado, “At that ceremony four years ago, I learned about native cacao seeds, their health benefits and how they are transformed into chocolate. Most people never know the hard work that goes into making this level of chocolate.”
Some years later, when a friend showed Maldonado how to grind the seeds into chocolate, she became hooked. Along with her passion for working with native cacao, she feels determined to help preserve these native cacao seeds and share this amazing food with others.
“In my tradition,” says Maldonado, “cacao has a lot of influence. I’m a pre-Hispanic dancer (Mexica) and am passionate about our native traditions. When I am processing cacao seeds, I feel complete in my passion. The important thing for me are these native seeds and how they are endangered and headed toward extinction.”
When she started her business, Luna Cacau, Maldonado made her own molds and flavors and bought her cacao from the local markets in Guadalajara, where she was living at the time. Once she researched where the cacao actually came from and learned that the oldest cacao in Mexico comes from Soconusco, she visited the area and formed a relationship with the small community of growers living in Villa Mazatán.
According to Maldonado, the best coffee and the best cacao come from Villa Mazatán. “Belgians prefer to get their cacao from that area to make their fine chocolate.” Maldonado receives deliveries of these same beans four times a year to her home in San Antonio Tlayacapan.
Unfortunately, Soconusco isn’t producing much cacao anymore. Many the farmers of that area don’t grow native cacao trees because it’s too expensive, so they grow other varieties that are cheaper and which get more production per acre. Maldonado has tasted both varieties and claims that the flavor is very different in both. “It’s like when you drink fine wine versus inferior wine. It is the same with cacao. Native cacao is superior in flavor, where other varieties taste inferior.”
The weather, altitude and nearby fruit trees of Soconusco affect the flavor of the cacao. Being a region of biodiversity, the cacao trees grow near coconut palms, lychee, mango and banana trees. Says Maldonado, “If a cacao tree is growing next to a mango tree, it will taste like mango. If it’s next to a banana tree, it will take on a banana flavor.”
Originally from Michoacán, Maldonado lived in Guadalajara for 10 years before moving to Lakeside two years ago. As the single mother of 21-month-old Anandi Luna, she says that “lakeside is a good place to raise my daughter. It’s also a good place to run my business because people here are looking for healthy food.”
Maldonado produces small quantities of products, including cocoa butter, cacao “luna” balls, and cocoa powders infused with cardamom, ginger, pepper and cayenne. She also uses essential oils, such as orange, lavender and mint in her products. She doesn’t use dairy or refined sugar, only molasses. When she’s not at work in her kitchen or running her café, she is selling her products at three weekly markets, including the Wednesday outdoor market in Ajijic.
Last November, she opened Luna Cacau, a cozy cafe and chocolateria, located next door to her home. Last month, she and her new chef added an array of vegan dishes to the menu.
Every few months, Maldonado hosts a three-hour, three-part cacao ceremony in her backyard. “During the first part,” she says, “I introduce everyone to the cacao seed, its meaning, where it comes from, its history and mythology. Then, we open a fresh cacao pod and sample the seeds. By eating only pure cacao in the morning, one can feel the difference. There are about 200 benefits in one seed and it’s the most nutritive seed in the world, and the cacao shell contains lots of magnesium.”
During the second part, they transform the cacao into chocolate. “We roast it, peel it, grind it and create our beverages. We prepare small bowls with different flavors, trying to preserve harmony and good energy throughout the process.”
During the third part, they learn about the mysticism of cacao. “We create a small ceremony, dancing in a circle and singing spiritual songs. We then give neck massages to those ahead of us in the circle, using cacao butter. That way, we get to experience the benefits of the cacao butter on our skin.”
People leave the ceremony energized, having learned all about cacao and how to prepare their own chocolate at home. The next cacao ceremony is on July 15.
Maldonado has plans to put together small group tours to visit the cacao farms in Villa Mazatán. She is also working with the farming community to receive certification for their native seeds, similar to the system used in Costa Rica, a country recognized worldwide for its superior cacao.
Lastly, she has a vision to create a small co-op community in her neighborhood where they all share food and, of course, good chocolate.
For more information, visit Luna Cacau on Facebook or call 331 348 6595.