Not long ago I described a drive up to the top of Cerro Viejo from the town of San Miguel Cuyutlán.
On the way up, local guide Alfonso “Poncho” Tejeda told me the enterprising people of San Miguel were working on a “short and easy” Sendero Interpretativo, a self-guided interpretive trail for those who would like to enjoy a taste of the beauty of Cerro Viejo without sweating to reach the very top. True to their word, members of San Miguel’s ejido declared the trail “ready for hiking” on World Environment Day (June 5) and the following Sunday a crowd of about 50 people showed up to try out the new footpath. We began walking from the impressive Sport Center just south of San Miguel, but it is also possible to drive two kilometers uphill to the trailhead before starting to hike.
The trail took us through three or four different environments and on at least four occasions brought us to impressive miradores (lookout points) where we could appreciate some very different landscapes. Along the way we came to a natural cold spring that, we were told, is the source of drinking water for the whole town. At the highest point we reached (2,004 meters above sea level) we came to one of those giant white crosses that overlook so many towns in Mexico.
As for the “Interpretive” aspect of the trail, we found a few rather laconic signs. One announced “Tepehuaje – Medicinal Properties,” but there was nothing to indicate which of the nearby trees was the one possessing those rather vague curative powers. I think the ejido badly needs the help of some imaginative naturalists.
Along the trail we just happened to come upon a great many living creatures like colorful chinches (bedbugs), scorpions and frogs. Could it be we found so many bugs because tarantula expert Rodrigo Orozco was turning over rocks every ten steps? The first part of the hike, from the trailhead to the cross, represents an altitude gain of about 150 meters and is rather steep. Some of us worked up a sweat on this hike, but no one in the group was willing to cool off using the apparently successful technique of a Golden Retriever accompanying us: vigorously rub your belly in every mud puddle you find along the way.
I should also mention that 75 percent of the trail is strewn with rocks and stones of all sizes, meaning you must carefully watch your every step, particularly on the long downhill stretch after the cross. In short, this is a great trail for experienced hikers but neither “short-n-easy” nor appropriate for beginners.
After the hike, we peeked into Restaurante La Palapa del Mirador just next to the Sports Center, because all the local people on the hike told us the food was great there. To our surprise, we found there’s a fish farm behind the restaurant where they raise both tilapia and frogs (as well as ornamental fish not meant to be eaten). When I asked the owners what their specialty was, they gave me a funny look. “Everything is our specialty,” said chef Mirella Montes Jiménez and to prove it, she let us pick what we wanted from the menu and gave us samples. Well, we chose ceviche and chicharrón de pescado and both turned out good, but I’d give Chef Mirella a prize for the Chicharrón, which was truly delicious. So, even if you’re not interested in hiking, you can always visit the restaurant, It’s conveniently located one kilometer straight south of the Circuito Metropolitano Sur and easy to find.
How to get there
From Guadalajara, take Highway 54 (Lopez Mateos) south 16 kilometers to the Tlajomulco-Chapala Road (Circuito Metropolitano Sur). Drive 14 kilometers southeast to where you enter San Miguel Cuyutlán (N20 25.212 W103 23.426), which is reached even more easily from Chapala by driving 18 kilometers west on the same highway. Turn south into San Miguel and drive straight one kilometer to reach La Palapa Restaurante. If you’d like permission to hike and a guide, just stop along the way at the Casa Ejidal (N20 25.033 W103 23.499) which is situated right across the street from the church. You’ll find the Self-Guided Trail on Wikiloc.com under Sendero Interpretativo Cerro Viejo. The trailhead is at N20 23.957 W103 24.462. Driving time from Guadalajara to San Miguel: about 45 minutes.