Columbus has finally gotten an ambitious Italian restaurant on his namesake street. Calle Colon serves as a walkway of several fine restaurants, but none Italian. Tremezzo has attempted to fill that gap.
This is Italian with many digressions from the ordinary “classic lasagna” Italian, with both al fresco and indoor seating. The only thing missing is the grand image of God tapping Adam to life with his finger (or more aptly “clicking” him to life).
The venue is an interesting mix of diverse pleasures. Cozy as a family trattoria. Accessible, and not far from Ajijic Plaza. A distinct yet brief Italian menu, featuring distinct pizza varieties such as one with salmon and goat cheese, another with prosciutto and a four-cheese pizza. All the pastas are homemade and each dish is prepared to order. Even the hamburger has an Italian touch: a mix of beef and pork, as authentic Italian meatballs might be made. Pleasure-to-be-of-use service. A nimble staff seems to flutter about ever-ready to answer any call. And there’s a smorgasbord of musical styles and dancing on Wednesdays and Fridays.
The limited menu has some interesting gifts, and Jorge, an ingratiating manager, has explained that he plans to expand it to include more Italian classics such as ravioli and gnocchi. He may even ask you, the customer, for suggestions. Mine: Italiano al suo meglio. Sides accompanying the main courses are standard fare and more Italian creations would fit the venue’s character and ambition.
I had the spinach salad to start. It was perfect tender baby spinach but enhanced with roasted almonds, walnuts and cranberries – a starters delight that leaves you forgetful that you can still move to a primo or secundo next dish.
I ordered one of the unusual pizzas, and one I suspected I couldn’t get in any other Italian restaurant at lakeside: Pizza Funghi. Right away, you’re thinking a mushroom extravaganza, because it features seta mushrooms (version of wild oyster mushrooms), its real reason to exist. Regrettably, I was told they had been unable to find the heavenly seta mushrooms. (Mexico is just recently supporting the widespread production of the mushroom.) I have since returned and discovered that Temezzo has found a source for the precious mushrooms in Guadalajara.
The result was pretty much a good pizza. And if it’s Pizza Funghi, there needs to be a small bounty of mushrooms and varieties, not just what you’d find on an ordinary pizza. And the setas should become the superstar.
My guest also ordered something unusual to go with the pizza we were splitting: a calamari dish with ginger sauce. It seemed the perfect companion to the pizza. To drink, the house wine was a fine Chilean Chardonnay. And the wine menu is richly international and diverse. This all went as harmoniously as reeds, guitars and keyboards for a light but interesting Italian lunch.
You’ll find Tremezzo down a block or so from the Bancomer on the east side of Colon, filling a long-enduring gap for good authentic Italian food in the heart of Ajijic.