While wrapped in modern-day secular glitter, Christmas festivities in the Lake Chapala area still center on long-held customs that put the nativity story in sharp focus. For village children a big feature of the holiday season is taking part in Las Posadas, the neighborhood processions held from December 16 through Christmas Eve as living representations of the Holy Family’s search for lodging in Bethlehem.
Starting next Monday, you’ll see crowds of kids gathering every afternoon to parade through the streets, halting at several predetermined addresses to knock at the door. The entourage is usually headed by the pair selected to play the roles Mary and Joseph, with the Virgin Mother sometimes perched on a live burro. Those following behind often dress up as pastores y pastoras (shepherds and shepherdesses), carrying tinsel-wrapped báculos (walking staffs) and faroles (paper lanterns).
At each stop the children croon verses of a traditional litany asking the “inn-keepers” behind the door to provide shelter for the night. As voices from inside respond in alternate stanzas, they are repeatedly turned away. At the final destination the Santos Peregrinos (Holy Pilgrims) are invited to take refuge in the stable. That leads into a jolly holiday fiesta, complete with piñata smashing, hand-outs of bolos (goodie bags) and typical holiday refreshments.
Expats should feel confident that they will be welcome to tag along as spectators of these traditional celebrations.The charming Posada processions in San Antonio Tlayacapan stand out for their spiritual content, including prayers, citings from scripture, traditional Mexican carols and live tableaux representing Biblical passages that are set up in front of various households along the way.
The parades begin at a different intersection each day, getting under way between 6:30 and 7 p.m. The starting point for December 16 will be on Calle Jesus Garcia, just below the highway, proceeding from there to wind along La Paz and Independencia and end at the village parish for evening Mass. A map posted at the church entrance shows the selected route for other dates. Immediately following the religious service the children rush out to the atrium to be treated with piñatas, games and refreshments.
Youngsters in Ajijic congregate daily in the atrium at the San Andres church around 4:30 p.m. before heading out to whatever barrio is the designated Posada destination of the day.
Locals should find information posted at the church door explaining the route for any given date. Otherwise the procession can be located by cruising around the center of town to spot the homes where families come out shortly before dusk to clean the street and set up scenery.
Enquire among Mexican neighbors, local shops or church staff for time and location details in other lakeshore communities.