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An early adventure into the rugged, sometimes unfriendly, but stunning territory of the Wixaritari Indian tribe

Recently in these pages a brief discussion appeared (Reporter June 27, July 4, August 1) regarding Mexico’s Huichol Indians.  Inevitably, this meant references to ill-fated American journalist Philip True.  As many long-stretch foreign visitors and residents may recall, True wrote for the San Antonio (Texas) Express-News, headquartered in Mexico City.  He was murdered in Huichol territory December 16, 1998, aged 50.

Why local folks ask directions from gringos or ‘it saves time, no?’

A gentelman in an old fashioned slant-crowned sobrero and field-darkened huaraches stopped me in the middle of downtown Guadalajara the other day.

Oye señor,” he said, “can you tell me how to get to the Palacio Federal, por favor?”

The two of us stood in the middle of the crowded sidewalk, people pushing around us in both directions, some detouring into the street. Mexican faces. This wasn’t normal tourist territory and there wasn’t a gringo to be seen.