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Restaurant Alcalde tasting menu pops with surprise

The jewel piercing the otherwise linty outie bellybutton of Mayor Enrique Alfaro’s recently-christened “gastronomic corridor” (a collection of restaurants dotting Avenida Mexico between the perpetually congested Lopez Mateo and Golfo de Cortes glorietas) is Restaurante Alcalde, if its placement at number 36 on San Pellegrino’s list of Latin America’s 50 best restaurants is any indication.