French flair, classic “sensualist” dishes on a gourmet menu comes to Ajijic at an interesting venue called St. Remy Du Lac.
While fine French food is uncommon here at Lakeside, St. Remy delivers some interesting Gallic wonders. It is peculiar that so little of French culinary influence exists in Mexico, given long-term French immigration here and the short colonization 150 years ago. So St. Remy is a rarity.
St. Remy is Mexican in its terraza setting (the dining area) with a neutral décor that could be simply modest Spanish revival. The terraza overlooks a vast open and airy garden that stretches out to a quiet private roadway.
The offerings are classic French cachet, from duck confit to delicately prepared filet of beef to salmon and fish of the day. As with most French cuisine, it is the world-famous sauces that deserve much of the attention and praise. These are arguably the essential component of fine French dining, from foretaste to their lingering aftertaste.
Our table of four started with a fetching appetizer: melted provolone baked into a slice of smoked eggplant and dressed with chunks of cherry tomatoes and a robust pesto sauce. It went around the table quickly, and went down brilliantly with an Argentinian malbec. (The wine list at St. Remy is top of the line.) Fresh brown, grained bread was a nice surprise, too. Wonderful start.
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