Lake Chapala area residents will note not a pause, but rather an intense burst of activity as Mexico’s idiosyncratic commemorations of All Saints and All Souls rolls around at the end of next week.
November 1, Dia de Todos los Santos, is the date devoted to remembering Angelitos – the “little angels” who died in infancy. All those who have passed on at a riper age are honored on November 2, Dia de los Fieles Difuntos (Day of the Faithful Dead).
Visiting sacred grounds
The usual quiet at local graveyards is already evaporating as folks labor at refurbishing family burial plots Once repairs and gardening tasks are finished, they decorate the tombs with memorial coronas (wreaths) and cruces (crosses) embellished with religious images and artificial flowers, fresh floral arrangements and votive candles. Children’s graves are often adorned with tiny wreaths fashioned in pastel tones, gaily colored crepe paper streamers, balloons, offerings of sweets and toys, and vigil lights.
Family outings to the camposanto (holy ground) on November 1 and 2 may extend through an entire day, in some cases overnight, as relatives and friends cluster around the gravesites to relive fond memories, mourn again and celebrate in honor of the cherished muertitos who rest six feet under. They’ll bring along plenty of food and drink to keep them going, adding live music or boom box tunes to enhance the ambiance.
Most anything that’s missing can be acquired from street vendors set up for business just outside the cemetery gates. Their booths are stocked with all the holiday essentials: bundles of cempazuchitl (marigolds), barra de obipso (cockscomb), nube (baby’s breath) and other fresh flowers, cruces and coronas, cool drinks, seasonal fruits and typical Day of the Dead culinary treats such as pan de muerto (dead man’s bread), calabaza en tacha (pumpkin slices stewed in brown sugar syrup) and grinning calaveras de azucar (sugar skulls).
The eventual arrival of the local padre and his entourage lends the opportunity for appropriate spiritual reflection.
With aching hearts soothed and spirits uplifted, it’s time to head homeward and let the dead rest in peace for another year.
Reviving ancient traditions
Lakeside communities also mark the Days of the Dead with an array of public events derived from customs that have emerged and evolved from ancient times. All of the following activities offer expat residents and visitors an opportunity to immerse themselves in Mexican culture and colorful traditions.
THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 1
Panteon Loyola: Instituto Loyola de Chapala hosts its annual Humanities Fair, 6:30 p.m., at the school campus located in San Antonio Tlayacapan, next door to Lakeside Little Theatre. Putting a unique twist on the usual Day of the Dead customs, students will recreate a typical Mexican cemetery scene with more than 30 candlelit graves dedicated to the country’s most outstanding deceased authors, designed on the basis of classroom research. Also catch a traditional memorial altar dedicated to the late novelist Carlos Fuentes, a sawdust carpet with motifs alluding to the holiday and a brief stage show featuring pre-school tots singing seasonal tunes, readings of satirical Calavera verses and a thumbnail sketch of Fuentes. Typical native dishes and beverages are available for dinner snacking on site.
Tlayohua Miketl: Performance artist Luis Manuel presents his Night of the Dead show, 8:30 p.m., at the steps of Chapala’s San Francisco Church. The colorful two-hour spectacle brings a cast of 200 costumed performers on stage for a program of folk dances, songs and poetry representing Day of the Dead traditions from different regions of Mexico. The event customarily opens with a coterie of lost souls descending from boats at the water’s edge to wander through the audience and climb up to the church steeples to watch over the happenings below. Director-songster-poet Luis Manuel “El de la Paloma” gained his nickname for appearing with a white dove perched on his shoulder while spouting lyrics in Spanish and Nahuatl. Limited seating fills up quickly, freeing up as the evening wears on.
FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2
Muestra de Altares: Chapala’s Calle 5 de Mayo will be transformed into a living folk art museum with a huge neighborhood exhibition of Dia de Muertos altars spanning nearly the full north-south extension of the thoroughfare, concentrated between the cross streets of Miguel Martinez and Morelos. From a modest start-up almost two decades ago, it has grown into the town’s longest-standing Day of the Dead cultural happening. Many of the householders display artful doorstep offerings to their lost loved ones, parceling out free samplings of a favorite family foods or drinks to hundreds of passersby. Other lend space to local schools, businesses, government agencies and private organizations that participate with thematic altar displays. Spectators may enjoy a look at the multiple components and fascinating set-up process throughout the morning and afternoon hours as well as taking in the full-blown phantasmagoria that transpires after sundown.
Desfile Nocturno: Ajijic’s creatives juices are running wild to crank up a brand new Day of the Day happening based on customs and folkore of the town’s ancestral past. It starts with an after-dark parade set to kick off from the corner of Constitucion and Aldama, 7 p.m., snaking westward through the village, before turning back to the plaza via Hidalgo. It will encompass floats representing La Llorona (Weeping Woman), the Headless Horseman and other spooky legends, mock funeral corteges exemplifying rich man versus poor man lifestyles, and light-hearted surprise galore. A town fiesta running from 9 p.m. at the central square will include an exhibition of altars honoring deceased community leaders, a ballet folklorico performance wrapped around the Day of the Dead theme and a giant still-life tapestry laid out in front of the church, building up to a full swing musical boogie for the living and the dead. Typical food and drink will be dished out from stalls set up at the edge of the action.
Altar Hopping: While the parade is underway, local artist Xill Fessenden will be at the plaza from 7 p.m. to lead interested parties on a stroll down Calle Colon for a viewing of more altar offerings, including her own memorial to victims of Mexico’s war on drugs and organized crime.
Lake Goddess Ritual: The holiday attraction in San Juan Cosala will be a ritual ceremony Lake Chapala’s ancestral mermaid goddess Mixtli Xicualli, slated for 1 p.m at the town’s waterfront Malecon. It will be a blast from the distant past showcasing pre-Hispanic dances, a traditional offering of miniature clay pots cast in the lake to disperse prayers and intentions directed to divine forces. Organizers ask those attending to dress in energy-positive white clothing, and bring head gear to fend off the scorching midday sun. Tickets for the event – including a full spread of typical Dia de Muertos fare served at Restaurante Viva Mexico, Calle Porfirio Diaz 92 are going for 100 pesos per person. For reservations and more details contact Agustin Vazquez Calvario, (387) 761-1058 or (cel.) 333-156-2245.