September is more than a time of patriotic hullabaloo. It is also the peak season to feast on the bounty of local corn farmers.

Street vendors pop up at street corners and village plazas to sell freshly harvested elotes (corn on the cob) boiled up in large vats or grilled on a charcoal fire.  Kernels cut off the cob and served in cups, plates or the natural husks are called esquites.  Prepared in any fashion, the typical garnishes may be a squeeze of lime juice and a dusting of salt and powdered chile, or dollops of crema (Mexican style crème fraiche) or mayo topped with crumbled cheese.

A popular fall pastime among lakeside clans is the elotada, a social gathering centered on cooking and sharing a steaming pot full of corn on the cob.

Years ago, on a summer trip to the States, my young children had their first taste of American sweet corn slathered with butter. At first they turned up their noses, put off by the flavor and the mushy texture as compared to the familiar crunch and spice of Mexican elotes. They eventually came around to appreciate cooking styles from both sides of the border

Maíz (maize) has been the basic foodstuff of the Mexican diet since time immemorial. Cultivation of the nutritious grain traces back around 10,000 years to the ancient cultures of Mesoamerica. Scientists have identified 59 native varieties that survive today, despite threats of extinction due to the introduction of genetically modified seed.

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The invention of nixtamalization, a process of softening dried corn grains in an alkaline solution of water and lime or wood ash, long ago gave birth to masa, the ground corn dough used to make tamales and tortillas.

September is the perfect month to savor Mexico’s vast array of corn-based cuisine. There is pozole, the hearty stew concocted with hominy and pork. Pozolillo is a seasonal variety made with fresh corn kernels, chicken and pork in a broth seasoned with green chiles and tomatillos.

Tamales come with multiple choices of fillings such as carne (meat) or pollo (chicken) cooked in piquant red or green sauces, rajas con queso (strips of poblano chiles and cheese) and sweet versions flavored with pineapple or berries. Tamales de elote made with pulverized fresh corn have a delightful fluffy texture and slightly sweet taste.

As for tacos, it would take a skilled mathematician to count the ways. Anything rolled into a soft or deep fried tortilla fits the bill. Tacos filled with meat and melted cheese are called gringas.

The cornucopia of mouthwatering goodies known as antojitos (little cravings) includes tostadas, quesadillas, enchiladas, sopes, chalupas, huaraches and gorditas. I have a particular weakness for pezillcadas, the variation of gorditas that are lightly toasted on the comal (griddle), pinched around the edges and simply topped with melted butter and a spoonful of salsa or loaded up with other assorted ingredients.   

A great spot to chow down yummy tacos and gorditas and carry out an order of handmade tortillas is El Crucero located in San Juan Cosalá, just off the highway a few steps east of the Pemex station.

Buen provecho!