A secluded cultural mecca: the environs of the Expiatorio

Culturally vibrant, very centrally located, yet not in the centro historico of Guadalajara — that describes the few blocks centered around the soaring, neo-gothic church referred to as “El Expiatorio,” the University of Guadalajara (UdeG) Museo de las Artes and adjacent Paraninfo (which houses a famed Orozco mural in its interior), and the small Mercado Juarez a few blocks away.

So if the dead center of Guadalajara disappoints you with its clutter, the Expiatorio area offers more in the way of tranquility, polish, wider streets and a variety of cultural events. This is doubtless due to the presence of the University of Guadalajara, which, although it pops up wherever you look around metropolitan Guadalajara, is rooted here in its tall, modern headquarters at Avenida Vallarta and Enrique Diaz de Leon (a mouthful of a street but one that is worth remembering as your orientation point).

Danzon lessons & Expiatorio For some time, the large plaza on the Expiatorio’s south side has featured free, outdoor classes in danzon, salsa, cumbia, merengue, etc. on Sunday evenings, 6 p.m. (Classes also often happen Saturday evenings.) Organized by the owner of the adjacent restaurant El Fenix, with its varied, inexpensive menu served at tables shaded by green umbrellas, the classes draw couples and singles of all ages and levels of ability, some in dance garb and some not.

Of course, when you are not dancing, look inside the impressive Expiatorio or up at its tower. From its clock, a parade of miniature figures march out on the hour. The Expiatorio may look ancient, but it is not, unless you consider about 50 years to be old.

Corredor Cultural Expiatorio Giving the plaza outside the Expiatorio a higher profile recently is a new event Saturdays and Sundays, a sort of cultural tianguis featuring all types of art from painting and photography to theater, dance and Huichol handicrafts. Of course, in the plaza you are always likely to find artisans have thrown down blankets to sell their wares, but the new weekend events go well beyond this, with organic food, high-quality handmade designer clothing, plants, even a health group doing ear candling once. On weekdays, the plaza offers table games to the public, such as a giant chess set.

Cineforo Just north of the towering Expiatorio is the towering but modern UdeG building. On its sub-ground level, find the long running film venue Cineforo, which screens artistic films most days at 4, 6 and 8 p.m. for 45 pesos. And what better time to go the Cineforo than now, with the Guadalajara International Film Festival beginning this weekend through March 10. See www.cineforo.udg.mx

Museo de las Artes and Orozco mural Between the Expiatorio and Cineforo, you’d better not miss the Museo de las Artes in the large, ornate building known as the UdeG Rectoria. Outside the south entrance, a series of large, creepy sculptures by Alejandro Colunga cavort. Inside, take in one of the frequently changing art shows  (a sculpture exhibit by Carlos Medina opens March 23) or ask to be shown to the famed, fiery Orozco mural “The People and the Leaders” in the hall (Paraninfo) used for important UdeG events. Museum hours: Tuesday–Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday & Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Closed Monday. www.museodelasartes.udg.mx

Casa Escorza A relatively new addition to the cultural mix in the area is the charming little Casa Escorza, a photo gallery that is yet another UdeG-affiliated operation. Beginning Thursday, March 8, with a cocktail party open to the public at 8:30 p.m., you can see photos by Emiliano Thebaut entitled “Somebody Loves Me in New York,” which features portraits of street people in the Big Apple. (Shows until late April.) Also going on is an exhibit entitled “Turkestan del Este” [Turkestan in the East], which not surprisingly shows scenes from chilly and scenic Turkestan, near China, shot by Bernardo de Niz. Casa Escorza is upstairs in a beautifully kept house at Calle Escorza 83-A, just across Avenida Vallarta from the Museo de las Artes. Open Monday –Friday 9–9, Saturday 9–2 and Sunday 11–2.

Mercado Juarez and Neveria La Antigua At the corner of the Expiatorio plaza, face away from the Burger King (which some may consider an attraction) and head west three short blocks along Prisciliano Sanchez to find the tiny Mercado Juarez. Inside of course are vegetables and fruit, but the best part of this market is the restaurant Neveria La Antigua, which occupies an outer corner of the market (at Prisciliano Sanchez and Nuno de Guzman) and is a hot spot for breakfast (waffles, crepes, eggs, etc.). As the name implies, there is ice cream too, and lonches and more. Expect to wait on weekend mornings. Don’t worry if you like a late breakfast, because NLA serves the same menu all day long, until 9:30 p.m. Monday to Friday and until 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Slow-food dining If it is breakfast you are after, head about three blocks southwest of the market to Robles Gil 265-A and sit in the tiny, tranquilisimo front yard of the “slow-food” restaurant Ganerika, which also offers handicrafts sold under a just commerce arrangement. It is open only until 1:30 p.m. (every day). Owner  Gerardo Jimenez might suggest some particular treat made with organic or ranch grown ingredients, such as spinach quesadillas. Great coffee is served, interesting music CDs played and dogs fawned over. Ganerika hosts special dining events, usually on second Saturdays at 6:30 p.m. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

La Cafeteria A half block away at Robles Gil and Libertad  (perhaps the nicest strolling street in the city) a similar inexpensive restaurant, La Cafeteria, is usually bursting with a crowd engaged in chatter or glued to their laptops. Open from early morning until 11 p.m. A bakery on the same block, La Panaderia offers creative bread that adds options for those unsatisfied by the excellent birrotes sold at every little store in town.