August and September mark the “high season” for wildflower watching in this part of Jalisco and one of the best places to see them near Guadalajara is the Cerro de Colli, which lies just west of town, next to the Periférico (Beltway). This is the closest “corner” of the Primavera Forest to the big city.
I had the good fortune to visit Colli with Peace Corps Volunteer Barbara Dye recently and after hiking up the hillside only ten minutes, I was convinced that Colli is surely the most practical place for tapatíos to go flower hunting. But let me warn you, if a Barbara Dye happens to be leading the hike, you’d better have a mighty quick shutter finger because this outdoor enthusiast moves from flower to flower faster than a hummingbird.
We had barely started up the trail when what did Barbara spot but a Dahlia, Mexico’s National flower. This was a Scarlet-Flowered Dahlia (Dahlia coccinea) which was discovered in the Mexican mountains and named for the Swedish botanist Anders Dahl, who thought their tubers would make a good alternative to potatoes. According to Green Deane, author of Eat the Weeds, “Dahlias as food had some success in France and the Mediterranean area, but their slightly bitter flavor (then) kept them from going mainstream.”
A few steps later, Barbara pointed out a Cuphea llavea, which, in English, is known as a Bat-Faced Cuphea. I have to admit it’s an appropriate name for this weird-looking flower, but bats might object (if they were able to defend themselves), pointing out that many of their species are quite good-looking.
Colli Mountain is the volcanic plug which sealed up the last eruption of lava from the Primavera Caldera, the hole left over after a huge volcanic explosion which occurred 95,000 years ago, spewing ash (jal) over much of what is now Jalisco. I spent some time in the past looking for trails up Colli, eventually to discover, as did Barbara, the quick and easy path we were now following, whose rustic trailhead is less than a kilometer from the busy Periférico.
As you gain altitude along this vereda, you’ll enjoy the sight not only of wildflowers, but also of the City of Roses, La Perla Tapatía, spread out below you as far as the eye can see (through the smog). It’s something like the view you get from the top of the “Giant” Ferris Wheel at La Gran Plaza, only you’ll be a lot higher up. The peak of Colli is at 1976 meters and—unlike the Ferris Wheel—rising to this altitude doesn’t cost a centavo. You get to see Guadalajara from 1.2 miles high and you get a bit of exercise thrown in as a bonus.
Barbara Dye claims you can see some wonderful orchids on top of old Colli, but so far the only one she has shown me is Bletia coccinea, the “Brick-Red Bletia” which to me appeared rather brick-orange. She pointed out a hill (at N20 39.385 W103 27.612) where she once saw lots of orchids blooming.
Another good place to look for wild flowers is along the banks of Río Caliente, also inside the Primavera Forest. As for identifying the flowers you may see, check out the impressive photos by Barbara and other Peace Corps Volunteers by Googling “naturalezapeacecorps.”
Don’t forget that new wildflowers keep popping up all the time. You could go walking on Colli every weekend and each time you’ll see a different show!
How to get there.
Get onto the western Periférico (beltway) and exit at Avenida Guadalupe. Drive southwest 610 meters to Avenida las Torres (and the famous restaurant Paco’s Tacos). Turn right and go north 650 meters. Here you need to turn left onto Calle San Gregorio, but the median doesn’t permit it, so continue ahead 140 meters and make a U-turn. Follow San Gregorio west 130 meters and you’re at the trailhead (N20 39.684 W103 27.399). Driving time from the Periférico: Less than the time it takes to read these directions!