Twenty-one years ago, a young U.S. archaeologist knocked on our door and introduced himself. “My name is Chris Beekman. I just came from the jungles of Guatemala where somebody mentioned a caver living near Guadalajara named John Pint. Is that you?”
Not only did we become friends with that archaeologist (now Dr. Christopher S. Beekman) – we became neighbors. He moved into our community soon after and began working on a new project: a study of a nearby archaeological site called Cerro El Tepopote. While you may not recognize its name, you’ve surely seen it looming overhead 14 kilometers west of town on the north side of Highway 15 to Nogales, just where there used to be a most inconvenient military checkpoint.
Tepopote has steep, nearly vertical walls and looks like the ideal place for a fortress. Back around 300 AD, it was also the ideal place for checking out approaching travelers and possible invaders, according to Beekman, who spent several weeks hiking to the top of the Cerro day after day studying the ruins.
The fire also reminded me that I had long wanted to visit Tepopote, but had never got around to it. “Now’s the time,” I said to myself. “Because of the fire, the ruins should be easy to spot.” In addition, I wanted to have a look at this forest which city fathers promised years ago would never be developed, but which – rumors have it – will soon be turned into a housing development.
Not knowing the best route to the top, I asked for a map from a very knowledgeable outdoorsman who goes by the handle Quercus Robur and writes an excellent blog in Spanish on outstanding places to hike (quercus-robur.blogspot.mx). This blog, by the way, discusses the excellent potential of Tepopote as an animal corridor versus the plot to convert it into just more city streets.
Quercus obliged with the map and—together with friends, including an archaeologist—I headed for a restaurant called Curva de la Torre. “This is a convenient spot to leave your car and a nice place to eat after you finish your hike,” Quercus had commented.
When we told the waiters where we were going, they said, “Claro que sí, there’s a trail right behind the restaurant.”
Our map indicated we had to walk due north for nearly two kilometers, which we proceeded to do.
“Hm, funny.” we said, “There doesn’t seem to be any trail at all here.”
Undaunted, we just kept going north, walking over loose stones hidden under an endless bed of leaves. This woodsy area had not been burnt and was quite picturesque … if only we could have found that trail.”
Many hours of slogging through the leaves later, the terrain got steeper and rockier and we found ourselves on top of a promontory with a great view…but still no trail in sight. Here we entered a big area reduced to charred tree trunks by the fire. Nevertheless, this “black forest” was dotted with occasional patches of green. The regenerating process had already begun.
Now we swung south, reaching a maximum altitude of 1,929 meters above sea level … and at last we saw vestiges of a trail on top of the ridge. Five hours after starting our hike, hungry and about ready to give up our quest, we came to the ruins. Ay, ay ay! I regret to say it, but those ruins have been ruined … by would-be looters who have dug holes and trenches everywhere. About the only ruin a layman could recognize is a massive mound shaped like a loaf of bread, the deteriorating remains of a large rectangular structure, according to archaeologist Paulo Martinez of INAH.
Although the ruins were a bit disappointing, the view was not. Those ancient Indians had a perfect view in every direction but north and it’s well worth climbing Tepopote to see it.
It’s now late and we are hungry. We can see our restaurant right below us. Of course, the thought of retracing Quercus’s non-trail for 2.5 kilometers was anathema, so we looked for a quick-n-easy way down, and quickly found one. Slipping and sliding down a steep incline, with plenty of soot-covered trees to grab onto, we descended in a mere twenty minutes and what did we find at the bottom of the hill? A trail! Yes, no doubt this was the trail the waiters had referred to … unfortunately with a big “No Trespassing” sign right next to it.
A few minutes later, covered with soot, we were enjoying delicious Carne en Su Jugo and Borrego al Pastor.
So you have at least two routes for visiting El Tepopote: the picturesque Quercus trail-less way (five hours) or the Illegal Scramble (20 minutes). I will make no recommendations, but will post the second option on Wikiloc as “Tepopote – Restaurant Route.”
If you’d like to learn more about the archaeology of El Tepopote, you can consult “Political Boundaries and Political structure, The Limits of the Teuchitlan Tradition,” by Christopher S. Beekman (download it from Academia.edu).
How to get there
From Guadalajara’s Periferico (Ring Road) drive west 15 kilometers on Avenida-Vallarta-Nogales-Road. Park at the Curva de la Torre Restaurant (N20 44.154 W103 34.710). The ruins are right above you at N20 44.137 W103 34.416. Driving time from the Periférico: about 20 minutes.