Here’s another wonderful place that makes you feel you’ve arrived in the middle of nowhere when you are actually a mere 45 minutes from the big city.
As you head out of Guadalajara on Avenida Alcalde, the noise and congestion suddenly end and you find yourself driving straight down into the maw of El Cañon de Oblatos, probably the most spectacular of the canyons surrounding La Perla Tapatía.
Just before you reach the canyon floor—and slightly before reaching the banks of the Santiago River—you turn off to the quiet village of Ixcatán. Now you’re on cobblestone for six kilometers, until you reach a bridge crossing Río Soledad, or The River of Solitude.
From this point downstream, the river passes through what could be called a miniature version of Yellowstone Park. It’s truly miniature, covering a stretch of only 500 meters, but within that small space lies a steaming wonderland.
Thirty years ago, I heard rumors that there were geysers along the Soledad River and when I first laid eyes on them, I was truly amazed.