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It’s always Christmas in the Mascota mountains!

You are likely to see more horses than cars on the cobblestone streets of Navidad, Jalisco—a pueblito nestled among the high mountains above Mascota, some 130 kilometers west of Guadalajara.

Thanks to the greatly improved highway between Guadalajara and Ameca, we reached Mascota in only two and a half hours. First, we checked in at the Meson de Santa Elena, one of many fine 18th and 19th-century mansions in Mascota, which have been turned into gorgeous but reasonably priced hotels. Our room had a ceiling of thick wooden beams six meters above our heads, a glamorous, handmade, tile sink as well as a “bathtub” that looked more like a small swimming pool.

Immediately we began asking questions about the road to Navidad.

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