While much has been written about Mexico’s more simple Christmas customs, the lack of intrusive commercialism and the easing of the frenetic pace, few articles focus on the vast difference in Mexico’s Easter customs.
Most expats remember Easter past with fussy new dresses and hats, starched collars and perfectly knotted neckties and the required attendance at what seemed to be eternally long Easter Sunday services while Easter baskets filled with chocolate bunnies, jelly beans and marshmallow Peeps awaited our return home.
Until I experienced my first Easter at Lake Chapala it hadn’t occurred to me that not everyone around the world celebrated the risen Lord with hot cross buns, piles of rainbow-colored hard-boiled eggs, and a feast of baked ham, creamed spring peas ending with the cake Aunt Lulu molded and frosted into the shape of spring lamb.
“What?” I hear the newcomers among you saying. “Mexicans don’t do ham dinners, Cadbury eggs, marshmallow Peeps, and jelly beans? What will I do? I always nibble the ears (or toes) from my chocolate bunny first.”
No, Virginia, there are no Easter baskets. In fact, it’s been years since I’ve seen plastic Easter grass. That I don’t miss. While those shredded pastel strands were great in the bottom of the Easter baskets, bits, pieces, and shreds always escaped and ended up under the sofa where it seemed to multiply. The more I vacuumed, the more there was. I wondered if it was reproducing under there.
Actually, I did see Easter baskets in Ajijic once. It was about 20 years ago in a now defunct super market. Ok, to be perfectly honest, it was a substandard grocery store and that is being as kind as I can. One December the owner proudly arranged about seven new plastic toys in a Christmas display, surrounded by a dozen or more Easter baskets, the traditional candies and grass still intact. Each basket was shrouded in one of a variety of pastel shades of cellophane. It was a wondrous sight for Christmas. Shoppers stopped in their tracks to just gaze in wonderment.
Just as expats have become accustomed to Christmas at lakeside amid posadas (processions to find the inn) and without with fruitcakes, so Easter dawns with a whole new set of and traditions and not a dyed egg or frilly bonnet in sight.
Mexicans seem to mark Pascua (Easter) in one of two ways, each stamping the two-week vacation period with their own traditional mark.
By now, you’ve noticed the loudest and most visible faction. They’re part of the Guadalajarans who spend as much of their vacation as far away from the city as their budget will allow. That means that some are in Europe, others are at theme parks and malls in the United States, thousands take up residence at one of the republic’s many beach cities and the rest come to Lake Chapala for an afternoon’s picnic or a fun-filled fortnight at the family’s home here at the lake.
I know you’ve seen them all week. There are the SUVs with boat trailers and bike racks, family cars piled with bag and bundles, taxis with picnic coolers strapped on the roof, pickup trucks exploding loads of kids, boxes of beer, and grandmas riding in lawn chairs. That doesn’t even count the ballooning vacation population arriving via the fleets of tour busses streaming into Chapala. Meanwhile, experienced lakeside expats headed to the grocery store well in advance of the April 11 start of the insanity. They stock up for the duration just as they did up north when a blizzard or hurricane was in the forecast. Then they go home and hunker down until the roads clear a week after Easter.
How are the remaining Mexicans marking the holiday? Here at lakeside most employees work up until the last two or three days before Easter. Many of the residents of the north shore towns have been at work for months building sets, making costumes, learning lines and rehearsing for the elaborate annual Passion play each town presents to dramatize the last week of the life of Jesus. Most of these presentations of the death of Christ begin with his triumphant arrival in the city on Palm Sunday and continue to Friday’s realistic trial and crucifixion.
Area catholic churches are darkened and locked from Friday afternoon until an hour or so before midnight on Easter Eve when those attending the Easter Vigil are rewarded a view of the empty tomb. The Easter Proclamation: “Jesus is Risen,” cues barrages of skyrockets and an exaltation of pealing bells. The remainder of the night is passed in celebration with fiestas in the plazas, parties and midnight suppers in area homes and on local streets.
Easter morning is much like Christmas morning and New Year’s Day. The stops are all pulled out on the eve of the occasion and at dawn, when it seems as if all the skyrockets and bells in town should be creating the biggest din ever, the streets are eerily quiet and empty. The few folks out are expats headed to their own quiet celebrations of the resurrection while the worn out bell ringers and skyrocket lighters and music makers and fiesta goers sleep peacefully.
Democrats Abroad
The final film in the Sunday After at the Movies series sponsored by the Lake Chapala Chapter of Democrats Abroad Mexico is set for Sunday, April 20, 1:30 p.m.
“Chasing Ice,” the result of a three-year scientific adventure, includes stunning cinematography of rapidly disappearing glaciers.
Award-winning National Geographic Cinematographer James Balog and his crew used time-lapse cameras to capture mammoth glaciers crumbling in Greenland, Iceland and Alaska as they document man’s role in rapid climate change and describe what these changes represent for life on earth.
The New York Times wrote that this movie is “… stunning, timely, a solitary quest with global implications.”
The movie will be shown at Cinemas del Lago, Bugambilias Plaza, Ajijic. Tickets are 50 pesos at the box office. The public is welcome to attend. Proceeds are used to help fund the sponsoring organization’s non-partisan voter registration and voter assistance program for American expats living in this area.
CASA’s French Dishes
Lakeside residents and expats who shared an interest in good food, learning preparation techniques, and meeting new people organized the Culinary Art Society of Ajijic (CASA) in 1986. The ever evolving group, one of lakeside’s oldest organizations, meets on the third Monday of each month with friendly competition to stir a growing interest in creative cooking.
This month’s two competition categories are French main dishes and French desserts. The meeting will be held Monday, April 21, 4 p.m. at Min Wah in Ajijic.
Attendance at meetings is by invitation, and while the membership roster is currently full, the organization keeps a roster of those waiting to join. Those interested can contact the membership chairman, Rick Feldman at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and obtain more information at www.ajijiccasa.org.
American History lectures
The popular Lake Chapala Society (LCS) monthly series of lectures on American History continue on Monday, April 21 in the Neill James Sala at the rear of the LCS grounds. The two-hour session begins at 2 p.m. under the auspices of Arnold Smith, who chairs these history sessions. For more information email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
Ajijic Rotary Club
The Rotary Club of Ajijic is a humanitarian service organization, and contributes to the local community with solar heating and other projects for orphanages and the Tepehua Community Center, scholarships for needy students, clean water in remote areas, humane education, a dog-assisted therapy program, ongoing outreach programs for at-risk youth, and many other initiatives.
There are guest speakers for most of the weekly Tuesday meetings which are held at the Hotel Real de Chapala in La Floresta. The meeting begins at 12:30 p.m. with doors opening at noon to allow time for fellowship.
For more information call (376) 766-5025 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
LCS Tasting Party
The Lake Chapala Society (LCS) will host a wine and tequila tasting on Sunday, April 27, from 2-5 p.m.
“It may have been awhile since some area residents have been on the grounds of LCS. We believe this casual event is a perfect use for the facility and a terrific way to spend a peaceful afternoon with family and friends”, said Terry Vidal, LCS executive director.
Wine and tequila merchants and distributors have been invited by La Paz Licores. In addition to providing spirits to taste these vendors will offer discounted prices on single bottles or cases of the wines and tequilas sampled at the event. Shoppers need not worry about carrying a heavy cases or packages. Coupons will be distributed that are redeemable at the La Paz Licores store in San Antonio Tlayacapan. Parking is available adjacent to the store.
The tasting has been expanded to include vendors of delicious cheeses and breads invited by Super Lake. Tasters can pick up discount coupons for the delectable morsels and then redeem them at Super Lake.
Tickets for the event are 75 pesos and are on sale at LCS. Tickets will also be available at the entrance to LCS on the day of the event. For more information call Karen Cage, (376) 766-5047 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
LCS Texas Shopping Trip
The Lake Chapala Society plans events to suit a wide range of interests. The plans for the current shopping trip to the United States include leaving lakeside for McAllen, Texas, via deluxe chartered bus, on Sunday, May 4. Die-hard shoppers who reserve a space on the trip will receive a full package of amenities including three nights at the Hampton Inn and breakfast on three mornings, bus transportation to all McAllen shopping areas and tips for the long-distance drivers. The travelers return to Lake Chapala on the morning of Thursday, May 8.
Due to new taxes, the price for this trip is 7,000 pesos per person for a double room or 8,700 pesos for a single room. There is a non-refundable 1,000-peso deposit. Those interested should sign up at the LCS soon so that bus and hotel reservations can be made. Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. for more information.
San Andrés Roman Catholic
The English-speaking congregation of the Templo de San Andrés in Ajijic will meet at 9 a.m. on Sunday, April 20 to ring in the Easter season during their regular Sunday Mass celebrated by Fr. Basil C. Royston. Those planning to attend are encouraged to wear the color of the season (white) and to bring bells to mark the celebration of the Resurrection.
St. Andrew’s Anglican
A meditation on toes may seem a strange topic for Easter, but Father Winston Welty has noted a connection that may surprise those who hear his sermon at either the 9 or 11 a.m. Eucharistic services on Sunday April 20. His sermon entitled “A Barefoot Easter” takes the Easter story in Matthew and suggests that one detail can shed light on the meaning of Easter for 21st century disciples.
There will be a full choir and music at both Easter Sunday worship services, plus a fellowship and refreshment time will be held between the two meetings. St. Andrew’s is located at Calle San Lucas 19, a block south of the Carretera in Riberas del Pilar.
The Little Chapel
The Little Chapel by the Lake is hosting a joint Sunrise Service with Christ Church Lakeside at the Upper Chula Vista Home of a member. Due to parking constraints at the home, those who wish to attend will be taken to the location by members operating an informal shuttle system from the church beginning at 7 a.m.
A fellowship breakfast will be served following the service. There will be no regular worship service of the Little Chapala by the Lake congregation.
Christ Church
Christ Church members will join the congregation of The Little Chapel by the Lake in a Sunrise Easter Service at about 7:30 a.m. on Sunday, April 20 at the home of Barbara and H. R. Thornton, Paseo de las Peñas 52 in Upper Chula Vista. There will be a shuttle service from The Little Chapel by the Lake, on the Carretera in Chula Vista, to the Thornton’s house for about 30 minutes before the service.
Christ Church will celebrate the Easter Day Eucharist at 10:30 a.m. at The Little Chapel by the Lake. Fr. Danny Borkowski’s message will be “I Have Seen the Lord,” based on John 20:1-18.
Lakeside Presbyterians
Pastor Ross Arnold’s Easter sermon at the Sunday, April 20 worship service of the Lakeside Presbyterian Church will be “The Whole Truth.” In this talk he frames the meaning of Easter as the key that can be used to understand the meaning of every human life.
Visitors are encouraged to attend the 10 a.m. service on Easter (or any Sunday morning) at the church. Following the service, members and guests meet for fellowship and refreshments.
Lakeside Presbyterian Church is in Riberas del Pilar, on the mountain side of the Carretera, between S&S Auto and Vigolari.
Unitarian Universalists
The Sunday, April 20 service of the Lake Chapala Unitarian Universalist Fellowship will feature the theme, “Reversal and Renewal – the Freedom to Be,” presented by Bob Koches. An Easter potluck for those in attendance will follow at the home of Susie Wagner.
This group meets every Sunday at 10:30 a.m. at Plaza de la Ribera, Rio Bravo 10A. For more information please call (376) 766-1458 or (376) 765-7231.
Baptist Church
Lake Chapala Baptist Church will have a special Sunday, April 20 service to celebrate Resurrection Day. The service will begin at 10:30 a.m. and will include the presentation of “The Witness,” the story of Jesus, told and sung by Peter and by the men and women who shared Jesus’ life, His death, and resurrection.
All are invited to see this special program. There will be no Sunday School on Resurrection Sunday. The local Baptist Church is in Riberas del Pilar, on the corner of San Lucas and Santa Margarita.
Hu Song
Those looking for a happier, more contented life or who need to lift a grieving heart are invited to join like-minded people in a contemplative spiritual exercise, HU Song.
Hu Song is held on the third Saturday of every month from 10:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. followed by a time for fellowship at the Spiritual Center on Nicolas Bravo 17B, Ajijic.
People of all faiths are welcome. This month’s HU Song is scheduled for Saturday, April 19. To avoid interruption, be sure to arrive no later than 10:20 a.m.
Contact Penny White at (376) 766-1230 for further information. The event is hosted by Eckankar Mexico.