Avenida Chapultepec, the 14-block-long stretch of walkway bordered on two sides by lush shrubs, trees and traffic, may have been eclipsed by the newer Plaza Andares as the spot for the upper classes to see and be seen, but the newly beautified boulevard nevertheless seems to have reached its zenith, offering chic and fun for Guadalajara’s middle class of all ages.
Whether you want to see cute toddlers, kissing novios, teenage boys learning the latest break dance or “jumping,” artisans selling wares a cut above the usual street fare, tall flowering trees, artistic exhibitions, dramatic fountains, bookstores or restaurants, Chapultepec has it all — and in a pleasant, outdoor setting that is much less contrived than a mall. It is situated in a moderately upscale and quiet area near the U.S. Consulate, with wider streets than are found downtown.
We begin a stroll, appropriately enough, at the southern extreme of the boulevard nearest Avenida Niños Heroes, where a towering obelisk commemorates the events from which the street takes its name — the resistance against the United States invasion by boys of a Mexico City military school based in a castle named Chapultepec in the mid-1800s. (Incidentally, before Guadalajara’s Avenida Chapultepec was so named, it was called Lafayette, after the well known French aristocrat and supporter of revolutions. A colonia and other buildings near Chapultepec, notably the high-rise Hotel Lafayette, still bear Lafayette’s name. But perhaps a better known name is Zona Rosa, a moniker given the whole area, designating it as similar to the Zona Rosa/Polanco area of Mexico City, where intellectuals, artists and high class people hobnob.)
In this area near the boy soldiers’ monument begins one of the several art or informational exhibitions that grace the pedestrian area. And near here, between Mexicaltzingo and Vidrio, soar four new apartment buildings that went up recently, creating much opposition from neighbors who own smaller, one- or two-story homes nearby. Also take note of Casa Yakult (at Montenegro), the yogurt maker’s headquarters that doubles as a Japanese cultural center and offers many events and courses, such as yoga and origami.Underfoot along Chapultepec, you see the red-and-white-checkered pavement that used to be traditional outside homes; to either side, lush red and green bushes that were put in only months ago to spruce up for the Pan American Games; and above, at this time of year at least, the arching lavender blooms of jacarandas. All this is punctuated by benches, dramatically lit fountains that function most of the time and a procession of life-sized statues of individual boy soldiers.
Chapultepec is laced with interesting eateries, from small frozen yogurt and sushi establishments, to a Black Coffee (at Montenegro) and a Starbucks (at Lopez Cotilla), and many apparently popular bars-restaurants — the hopping Orage (at Gonzalez Luna), Callejon de los Rumberos (at Lerdo de Tejada) and the longstanding Bananas (at Guadalupe Zuno), the Green Mug (near Libertad), the deli Boca 21 (at Libertad), Aderezzo (at Guadalupe Zuno), VIPs (just west of Chapultepec on Hidalgo) and Domino’s Pizza (at Lopez Cotilla).
These may be good, but some with outstanding reputations are El Jarro near Lopez Cotilla (small and clean with well prepared Mexican cuisine) and, near Avenida Mexico, Los Itacates, famed for wonderful breakfasts. Los Itacates has a small and unassuming exterior but a spacious interior. A long-standing habitue for intellectuals is the outdoors-ish La Estacion de Lulio Cafe, a half block east of Chapultepec on Libertad, with a varied menu and bar and patrons who like to smoke as they discuss intellectual matters.
Directly across Chapultepec from this cafe (only a block from the Consulate) is the state bookstore Libreria Fondo Jose Luiz Martinez, which has many good books and free presentations. And speaking of bookstores, a block or so away at the corner of Lopez Cotilla, find the large bookstore Gonvill, which carries some English teaching books and art supplies on its second floor. (The legendary hangout-cafe-bookstore Gandhi is about two blocks west on Lopez Cotilla.)
Let’s not forget the towering Chapultepec 15, even though everyone else seems to have. This silvery tower at Hidalgo was until recently the tallest building in the city (until the Rui Hotel went up), although it has been seriously under-rented since it was built about a decade ago. On its ground level, there are several swanky bars and restaurants, including the Japanese restaurant Suntory. If you are looking to buy a wedding dress or super-fancy fabric, the few blocks near the tower are a good place to do it.
Besides all these attractions, Chapultepec is perhaps most well known for several weekly events. One of them is the Sunday Via Recreativa, the walking-cycling-skating event which starts early and ends at 2 p.m.
Another is the Saturday evening cultural tianguis that features dozens of arts, crafts and books stands from 8 p.m. to midnight. You will probably see some street performers, including excellent bands, clowns and the like.
And lastly, turn the corner on Avenida Mexico any Sunday before dusk and check out the antiques flea market Trocadero, located in the pedestrian median in the middle of the street, in front of the supermarket Aurrera Bodega. (Aurrera and, outside, a fountain, small park and large statue representing Mexico in feminine form mark the northern extreme of Avenida Chapultepec.)
Facing this median, find an outstanding and moderately priced Japanese restaurant and well-stocked Asian market, both named Toyo, and both near the corner of Avenida Mexico and Manuel Diegez.
Walking fast, you could traverse Chapultepec in ten minutes. But who wants to walk fast here? And if you do, be careful crossing intersections, which are not quite as friendly to pedestrians.