Although lamented by followers of a certain U.S. president, globalism is on the rise, even on a leafy and not especially commercial street corner in Guadalajara, where Korean native Sujin Lee and Tapatio Cesar Cardenas set up the enigmatically named establishment, SSAM, four years ago and turned it into a raging success.
Here, world wise locals young and old, including mothers with schoolchildren, surge in most afternoons and evenings, while somehow leaving the impression, at least from the exterior, that SSAM is just another nondescript eatery that is barely scraping by.
Lee’s and Cardenas’s trajectory — the couple met seven years ago while attending culinary school is San Sebastian, Spain — has been metamorphosing since they founded SSAM in 2014, plopped down a couple of picnic tables in front, and announced Mexican breakfasts and Korean dinners.
“We remodeled in May,” explained Cardenas. “And started doing publicity on social media,” chimed in Lee, trying to explain the lead-up to their current boom.
Along the way, they lost the Mexican breakfasts and added a staff of alert and knowledgeable waitstaff and cooks who expertly manage the medium-sized dinner menu consisting of classic and flavorful main dishes, appetizers, drinks and desserts, all served with freshness, flair and a happy juxtaposition of sometimes piquant or tart ingredients.
I ordered the special of the day, Bibimbap, which was a Mexican molcajete filled with tender, warm rice and, in this special version, a nicely seasoned salad of excellent multicolored lettuce with seaweed, marinated onion, and a generous portion of raw salmon. I was able to manage most of it with the metal chopsticks provided—I was happy not to see ecologically unfriendly, disposable, wooden ones—and I only asked for a fork and knife to cut the salmon into bite-sized pieces (wondering if there is some secret technique for this, of which I am sadly ignorant).
Usually the Bibimbap is prepared with beef, a poached egg, vegetables and sauces for 120 pesos but the salmon version turned out to be 180. Despite my disappointment at the higher price — isn’t a special usually cheaper? — I very much enjoyed it.
Along the way, I opted for the house’s special ginger ale for 35 pesos and it too was exquisite, not excessively sweet and beautifully presented, with garnishes of a raspberry, ginger slices and fresh mint leaves. The house has other tall, fruity drinks, such as lemonade with matcha, maracuya, raspberry or ginger and an aloe vera drink. Considering how good the ginger ale was, I might have thrown caution to the winds and satisfied my curiosity about the aloe vera drink. SSAM also features Cafe Expresso (that’s how they spell it) and Americano, Cafe Bombon and Affogato (expresso with vanilla ice cream) — all of which I suspect are good — not to mention a slate of Korean drinks: Verde with Arroz Integral (brown rice) and three ginger drinks.
SSAM also offers Korean ramen, called Ramyeon or Bibim Ramen, prepared in broths or other ways. The menu features about 10 other main dishes, four appealing appetizers and numerous types of beer (including Korean and Colima varieties), so there is plenty to choose from.
The most intriguing dessert was S’Mores with Matcha Ice Cream inside the marshmallows. I saw a waiter bring a small grill to a couple’s table, along with bamboo sticks, all apparently for toasting the s’mores. (The couple also indulged in an eye-popping dessert, Bingsu – a big mound of deep turquoise mashed potatoes — just kidding; must have been ice cream — sprinkled with what looked like radioactive raisins and flanked by dark green, gelatinous pellets, a dollop of ricey stuff with multicolored flecks and sliced strawberries. Only the strawberries warmed my earth-mother heart, but the couple ate the dish with gusto, which is not so surprising in a place where people walk around with lollipops stuck in their mouths.)
Oh, the enigmatic name. Lee informed me that SSAM, yes, with double s, means taco in Korean. However, the wrap is usually done with lettuce leaves around a meat or other type of filling. Despite this substitution of lettuce for tortillas, SSAM, the restaurant, appears to have found a secure place in the hearts of Tapatios.
Restaurante SSAM (on Facebook), Calle Morelos 2122, Colonia Ladron de Guevara, Guadalajara. Tel. (33) 3615-7478. Open 1 to 10:30 p.m. Sunday 1 to 5 p.m. Street parking available nearby.