At the Panteon Mezquitan in Guadalajara, people will congregate as they do every year – to visit deceased relatives, leave a cigarette or a glass of tequila (whatever their ‘vice’ might have been). And enjoying a feast on the grave of a loved one, chatting to them, playing the music they liked and spending the afternoon in their company seems a lot more wholesome than an awkward two-minute visit to a cemetery to place a few measly flowers on a tomb.