Just as our heads had begun to clear and trembling pets emerged from their hiding places following Ajijic’s noisy San Andrés fiestas, the daily roar of fireworks has started up again, this time blasting out at the west end of the village, where the novenario honoring the revered Virgen de Guadalupe runs in full fury from December 4 through 12.
The same scenario is playing out in Chapala, San Antonio, San Juan Cosalá, Jocotepec and every other town along Lake Chapala’s shoreline as the faithful pay tribute to the nation’s spiritual patroness.
Many families manifest their devotion to La Guadalupana by setting up picturesque shrines at the doorsteps of their homes. Centered around a cherished household image of the dark-skinned Virgin, the holiday altar is commonly adorned with Mexican flags, paper banners or streamers in the national colors, plants and flowers (particularly roses), candles and strings of sparkling Christmas lights.
The festivities peak on Wednesday, December 12, the Feast of Guadalupe. It is the day to get out to watch colorful street processions, starting between 4 and 6 p.m. depending upon the location, featuring ritual dance troupes, toddlers dressed in native Indian costumes, scenic floats, marching bands, charro horsemen and the indispensable coheteros armed with huge bundles of sky rockets shot off to herald pilgrims’ progress.
In Ajijic’s Barrio de Guadalupe, just west of Seis Esquinas, the traditional street fair held following the evening service at the neighborhood church will run into the wee hours as revelers indulge in plentiful food, drink, music and fireworks galore.