As folks in Ajijic are buzzing about the prospects of gaining Pueblo Mágico status, news is just out that San Miguel de Allende has been ranked number one in Travel + Leisure magazine’s 2016 list of Latin America’s best cities and third out of 15 on the worldwide roster.
How to the two towns compare? Both are popular tourist and retirement destinations, with large populations of socially and culturally active resident expats. Both bask in delightful year-round climates, although I’d wager the weather here is a bit superior. Both are known for frequent and colorful festivities. On the down side, residents in both places gripe about growing problems of excess traffic circulation and solid waste management.
So what are the wonderful attributes that earn San Miguel so much notoriety? And why do Ajijic and the Chapala area as a whole seem to fall short?
First off, we have to admit that San Miguel has a big edge in terms of historical importance as a place located in the cradle of Mexican independence. Its attractive Centro is a focal point of beautifully conserved Colonial architecture. It boasts an upscale tone and snob appeal, with lots of ritzy restaurants, first rate hotels, top notch galleries and boutiques, in addition to a plethora of glamorous, world-class musical and arts events.
Ajijic and its surrounding localities seem scruffy and second-rate by comparison. In my personal assessment, it essentially boils down questions of good government and community pride.
San Miguel has a good track record when it comes to local authorities who have demonstrated vision and common sense regarding checks on urban growth and development. Local ordinances to maintain order and a cohesive identity are strictly enforced and willingly accepted by inhabitants.
Hereabouts, government decision-making through the years seems to have hinged primarily on short-term political gain, with minimal attention on matters that will determine the community’s future well-being. That has spawned indifference among the constituents whose behavioral patterns have turned to looking out for number one, to hell with the common good.
Over four decades I have watched the gradual dissipation of Ajijic’s inherent magic. Sadly, some of the blame falls on the shoulders on foreign settlers.
Some have changed the face of the village by tearing down typical tile-roofed dwellings to build stately town houses in imitation of Colonial styles that were never part of the local landscape. Other have adopted a Wild West spirit of doing as they please, defying rules and customs that are the very fabric of social order. “It’s Mexico. Anything goes,” they cynically brag.
Current Mayor Javier Degollado is gung-ho on his vision to reinvent the Chapala area as a dazzling tourist and retirement haven. But such high-flying plans are doomed to fail unless his government buckles down on the basics of providing quality public services and the populace jumps on the bandwagon by fulfilling their obligations as good citizens.