Christmas in Mexico, of course, is celebrated in a big way. Calling it “Christmas on steroids” would be too strong.
But despite, shall we say, the enthusiastic way the holy day is celebrated here (as well as farther north), Mexican Christmas still seems to retain a great deal of the religious angle, alongside the glitter, color, aromas and clatter of the money box.
All of this, including the religious, is in full evidence at Guadalajara’s Christmas markets, which are locally called ferias – fairs – especially the city’s premier market, the Feria San Jose (St. Joseph’s Fair). And somehow it comes off as a lot less debauched than what you see at at your average mall, in any country. A lot of this has to do with the fair vendors here, who seem to be ordinary people making a living – people who may be handcrafting their wares on site or bragging that their merchandise is “100 por ciento mexicano.”
Yes, at Feria San Jose, there is dazzle and hard sell and stuff from China – especially the electronics, as one vendor of laser projectors freely admitted. But there are also women quietly making lovely ribbon sculptures to adorn your tree or door and merchants proudly selling esferas (tree ornaments) from Michoacan and Puebla that are as pretty as any I have seen. And of course there are tons of figurines of Jesus, Mary and Joseph et al to populate home and business nativity scenes – and people buy them.
Even two men repairing a children’s ride got in on the down-to-earth ambiance by warmly inviting the public to enjoy the rides every day, starting at 5 p.m., all year long. The rides are independent of the feria, but they – along with some dark, tunnel-like aisles illuminated by Christmas lights to beat all Christmas lights – give the market more of the excitement of a fair.
The block-size Feria San Jose, located on the east side of the eight-lane Avenida Federalismo at San Felipe (along which some bus routes run, and near the Tren Ligero Refugio stop), was relocated here several years ago, after its previous location burned. It occupies a park and is very near the impossible-to-miss Refugio church, which is painted a vibrant baby blue and was left stranded in the middle of the gargantuan Federalismo when four lanes for traffic were built on each side of it.
Besides ornaments, creche figures and supplies, lights and other electronic wares, goodies for filling piñatas, ribbon creations and a smattering of snowmen, the fair boasts awesome-smelling Christmas trees, potted fir trees and poinsettias, children’s rides and food – typical local fare such as tacos and tortas ahogadas and a few snacks.
Open until December 24, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily and until midnight on weekends.