Anyone who knows a lifelong Guadalajara resident well enough to understand the obscure word describing them (Tapatío or Tapatía) also knows how, shall we say, passionate they can be in embracing the city’s typical cuisine, very little of which, incidentally, is found in eateries of haute cuisine.
However, little formal recognition has been given to authentic Guadalajara food and its history, leaving local food lovers to be content with complimenting themselves on their good taste and/or frequenting, with a few exceptions, the city’s street stalls or fondas (small family restaurants) that serve up traditional (often carry-out) comida corrida for neighbors.
But now, a unique exhibit at the downtown Museo de la Ciudad sets out to change all that with an exhibit entitled “Sabores y Saberes” (Flavors and Knowledge). The five-room show zooms in, with a light touch, on the city’s nearly 500-year gastronomical history, which comprises a fascinating mix of indigenous, Spanish, Asian and French influences and proves that the study of food is a good way to bring dry history alive.
The exhibit reflects the fact that UNESCO has declared that the cuisine of Mexico — not just Guadalajara — represents part of the world’s Intangible Cultural History.
Although the show may pique your desire to sample authentic Mexican food, unfortunately, visitors can do little actual on-site eating — just one room contains baskets of grains and spices that can be nibbled. (Anyone for raw corn?)
But museum visitors who desire a taste of authentic Tapatío food (and don’t care to run the risks of a hygiene-free street stall) can go to the eatery section of a nearby farmers market such as Mercado Alcalde or Santa Teresita and there, with running water at hand to boost the chances of cleanliness, enjoy a variety of typical dishes, such as chiles rellenos (stuffed chiles), bírria (goat stew), pozole (pork and corn stew), meat and vegetable soups, tacos (of course), aguas frescas (fresh fruit and sugar drinks), tejuino (fermented corn and brown sugar drink served with lemon juice and salt) and jericalla (similar to and better than what is called flan here).You wouldn’t think that very much Sturm und Drang is connected with gastronomical history, but at a Thursday talk at the museum by food historian Pepe Hernández, people got worked up about a few unsavory trends.
One expert gave a hearty put-down of what you might imagine to be a local holy cow — the ubiquitous torta ahogada (literally, drowned pie), a roasted meat sandwich in a birote smothered in mild tomato sauce. Giving it a thumbs down, and declaring it a recent invention to boot (almost as recent as the much-ballyhooed carne en su jugo, the expert noted), he went on to lament the dizzying openings and closings of restaurants serving salad, pizza and pasta, while nary a decent restaurant serves beloved, local favorites. (El Sacramonte was mentioned as practically the only authentic restaurant, while other foodies named Restaurante Alcalde, as well as Los Otates and La Rinconada.)
More outrageously, someone then noted, not one of Guadalajara’s whopping 36 schools of gastronomy focus on Guadalajara cuisine.
Next the hallowed pozole was declared controversial because nobody knows its origin — whether it was invented during prehispanic times or later, and whether in Guadalajara or not. It was noted that there were no domesticated pigs in prehispanic times, and that indigenous people ate small amounts of hunted jabalí (boar), deer and reptiles. Speaking of meat, one notes that the exhibit hardly touches on it, except for an empty cage, presumably for a bird. While this may cause vegetarians to take heart, the reasons are probably that, in prehispanic times at least, few animals were domesticated. No animals were used for transport and, for food, the Aztecs and friends only had domesticated guajalote (turkey) and dogs. (Sadly for vegans, the native xoloescuincle dog as sometimes thrown into the stew pot.) Besides these were a few creatures hunted or fished. Prehispanic sources of protein were largely insects, spirulina algae and other vegetables such as corn and beans. Needless to say, insects and algae are not a focus of the show.
After the 16th century, Spanish conquistadores, including nuns famed for their cooking, made their mark on Mexican cuisine, inventing the traditions of selling food from homes, the breakfast dish chilaquiles, Mexican sweets, jocoque (yogurt), pipian (pumpkin seed sauce), albóndigas (meatballs) and lots more.
The show also includes kitchen and dining room furniture of the past, as well as table settings, altars and other displays.
The building, a two-floor, former convent built in the 1700s for Capuchin nuns, with a central plaza and spacious surrounding rooms, is a delight in itself.
El Museo de la Ciudad, Independencia 684 between Contreras Medellín and Mariano Barcenas. (33) 1201-8712. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Closed Monday. Cost to enter 20 pesos with discounts. Tuesdays free. “Sabores y Saberes” shows until third week of March.
El Sacramonte, Pedro Moreno 1398; Restaurante Alcalde, Avenida Mexico 2903; La Rinconada, Morelos 86 near Teatro Degollado; Los Otates, Avenida Mexico 2455 and other branches.