Wine has been an integral part of European culture for millennia and, until not so long ago, part of the daily diet.
Now consumers in every corner of the world are warming to the allures of wine and accepting the fermented grape beverage in their lifestyles. More and more countries, where grapes are able to grow, are starting or reviving wine production. A case in point is Mexico, the New World’s oldest winemaking nation.
Wine and vines arrived to the New World territories with the conquering Europeans. It’s believed the first samples of wine were offered to native Americans by Hernan Cortes on Maundy Thursday in 1519.
Cortes played a significant role in spreading the vine in the new territories, obliging the colonists to plant 1,000 vines for every 100 Indians that worked on their haciendas. By 1560, large vineyards were a common feature on the continent (except for the territory that now comprises the United States).
The first winery (an enterprise that produces wine in order to trade it) in Mexico – as well as the entire New World – was established in Parras de la Fuente (today’s Coahuila) in 1597 and still exists under the name of Casa Madero. Further on, when Spain started to colonize Alta California in 1769, a local priest, Fray Junipero Serra, founded what is now the now fourth largest wine producing zone in the world, which remained part of Mexico until 1848 when it was ceded to the United States. 
Mexican wine production has experienced its ups and downs throughout its nearly 500-year history. During the 17th century, an edict by the king of Spain prohibited new plantings of vineyards in New Spain, fearing the rising competition they created for the Spanish wines. The edict was enforced until Mexico gained its independence.
Wine production slowly regained after this but faced a new crisis in the early 20th century, when the federal government expropriated most of the clerical land, a good part of it devoted to winemaking. Many vineyards were destroyed or abandoned during the Mexico Revolution and production was suspended until 1928, when a new revival took place.
The peak of production was reached in the 1970’s, when Mexico counted on 80,000 hectares of vineyards, almost equalling the size of Bordeaux, the largest wine producing zone in Europe. In 1982, the government opened the borders for wine and spirits imports, having the effect of virtually burying the industry in a matter of years.
Today Mexico has only 3,600 hectares of vineyards, distributed mainly in Baja California Norte, Queretaro and Coahuila, with some new plantings in the states of Chihuahua, Zacatecas, Aguascalientes and Nuevo Leon. The Consejo Mexicano Vitivinicola hopes to expand and reach 10,000 hectares by 2020 by attracting investments of some US$800 million.
There are 120 wineries operating in Mexico, 80 percent of them “boutique” businesses, producing between 80 and 500 nine-liter cases per year.
Meanwhile, Mexican wine route popularity (Baja California, Queretero) is growing fast, attracting hundreds of thousands of tourists each year, a development that is helping push the expansion of the industry.
About the author: Sven Clyde was born and raised in Europe of mixed background. He’s been in the wine business since 2000, first as an importer, later as a wine journalist and finally as a winemaker. He has a degree in viticulture and enology, has made wine in Italy, France, Portugal, Greece, Chile and South Africa. He has also been a judge at numerous international wine competitions. Clyde fell in love with Mexican wine and moved to Guadalajara in December 2014.
Next week: Clyde’s top selection of Mexican wines, tasted at the 6th edition of the 100 Vinos Mexicanos festival in Queretaro, held at the beginning of March.